Usual disclaimer applies here, I am not responsible for any of your work. This procedure is done at your own risk, and my write-up is merely a guide to help you do it (as model years and options vary).

Big thanks to SScott for filling in all the bolt sizes. Also, I must metion my partner in crime here, JustDave did most of the replacement of the timing belt and tensioner.

And one more thing, this is not the only way to change the belt. It can be changed without removing the A/C condensor and radiator, however I wanted to have plenty of room to work….so I took it all off.

TOOLS/SUPPLIES LIST:
Metric sockets: 10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 19mm (12 point).
Allen sockets: 5mm, 6mm, 8mm
Breaker bar
Torx sockets: T45, T30
Set of metric wrenches
Timing Belt “kit” from PureMotorsports (www.pureMS.com ) ~$180
Fresh G12 Coolant (2-3 bottles if you change the coolant)
2 Buckets to catch coolant and windshield washer fluid if you want to reuse those

That’s definitely not everything, but I don’t think there’s anything else out of the ordinary you’ll need. Screwdrivers, socket wrench, extensions, etc…just normal stuff. A lift would help if you have access to one, but it’s not necessary….jackstands will suffice.

FRONT BUMPER REMOVAL:
1. Remove the plastic underpan; 6 screws underneath and 2 plastic screws in each wheel well.

2. Remove two small grills and fog lights (if applicable) on front bumper; the grills come out just by pulling.

3. Disconnect the hose to the headlight washers by reaching through the hole where you removed the driver’s side grill; it disconnects at the lightened area of the picture below. If you can’t reach it, see step 6. Washer Fluid will SPLASH out, so catch it in a bucket in case you want to reuse that

4. Remove the two long 6mm hex bolts (see above picture).

5. Now grab the side of the bumper, almost to the wheel well and pull BACK (towards the rear of the car) and DOWN then UP. It takes a little finesse, but it’s really not that hard. Have someone else hold the bumper while you do this so it doesn’t come crashing down and scratch the paint. See the picture below, notice how the two clips at the top and one at the bottom grab the bumper like a claw. So if you pull it down, and then up (or vise versa), then you should be able to work it loose.

6. If you haven’t disconnected the hose for the headlight washers, you’ll be able to do it much easier now; have someone to hold the bumper while you do it.

A/C CONDENSOR AND RADIATOR REMOVAL:

1. Drain the coolant. Loosen the cap on the filler tank in the engine compartment. See the red screw at the bottom on the driver’s side of the radiator; open it just a bit and you’ll see where the coolant will come out. Either connect a hose (as depicted by the green line in the picture below) or put a bucket underneath to catch the coolant. You can also remove the screw to drain the coolant out rather fast

2. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses, as well as the sensor just above the lower radiator hose. First, pry up the clip around the radiator fitting with a flathead screwdriver:

Do this for the top and bottom hoses. Now, just pull firmly (read: HARD) to get the hoses off. See the sensor above the lower radiator hose in the picture below

3. Remove the two “air guides” attached on each side of the A/C condensor. They’re blocked in the picture, but the Phillips head screws would be where the green dots are in the picture.

4. Now pull the P/S cooler that runs in front of the A/C condensor out of the way. The two 10 mm bolts are shown by the red dots in the picture above. Check the clamps connecting the rubber hoses to the P/S cooler while you have it loose, mine were leaking upon reinstallation of the cooler

5. Remove the two brackets that hold the A/C condensor in place, they’re held by four 10 mm bolts. See the picture, where the bracket is actually already removed

6. Disconnect the sensor that connects on the passenger side of the A/C condensor (see above pic).

7. Now; pull up and then out on the condensor; “peel” the A/C condensor to the passenger side.

8. To remove the radiator, pry the small tab in the circular pin up, as shown here:

to the position shown here:

9. Now pull the top of the radiator out towards you (as if the bottom edge were a hinge), then up. The radiator is now free. Its a good idea to flush the radiator out with a garden hose at this time and let it dry while finishing up with the rest of the tbelt change

REMOVING LOCK CARRIER:
1. First unplug the horn(s) on the passenger side, as shown by the lightened ovals (on a 2000 there is one horn per side )

2. Remove the bulbs from the turn signals (see dangling bulb in above picture) and
disconnect the plugs to the headlights.

3. Remove the bumper post bolts with a Torx T45 bit. The passenger side will have 4 bolts while the drivers side will only have 3 which are holding the bumper posts

4. Remove the two Torx T30 bolts at the front edge of the hood on each side.

.

5. Remove one Torx T30 bolt underneath each headlight; see green arrow.

6. Slowly slide the lock carrier out towards the front of the car; be careful it is heavy and  there are still wires running to the lock carrier (around the fan shroud), as you will see. Remove the hood release. Do your best to unclip the wires routed around the fan housings, so that you can lay the lock carrier off to the driver’s side.

TIMING BELT:

First, let’s make sure we’re on the same page as far as the parts in the “kit.” As seen in the picture below, you should have (1) timing belt, (1) tensioner, (1) tensioner pulley, (1) bolt, (1) washer, and (1) metal collar/sleeve. By the way, DO NOT PULL THE PIN ON THE TENSIONER, until the instructions say to do so.

1. Remove the upper timing belt cover by releasing the two “clips” and moving the hose that runs in front.

2. Remove the viscous fan; have someone hold the plastic blades firmly, while you remove the 5mm hex bolts, circled in yellow.

3. Remove the A/C compressor belt by loosening the tensioner with two 6mm hex bolts. You will later upon re installation use a wrench attached to the red circle to tension the new belt back up

4. Remove the main serpentine belt by rotating the spring-loaded tensioner; use a crescent wrench and rotate clockwise, hold it while you remove the belt. If needed, remove this tensioner–three 13 mm bolts. You like my yellow crescent wrench?

5. Remove the dampener pulley; have someone hold the pulley with a 19mm 12pt. socket on a breaker bar, while you remove the four 6mm hex bolts (allen keys won’t cut it here, you’ll need a socketed hex).

6. Remove the lower timing belt cover; there are two hex bolts the top: one is a 6 mm and the bottom one is a 5 mm (green arrows), a 10 mm bolt (red arrow), and a 10 mm nut (black arrow).

7. This step is the very critical. Carefully align the 2 timing marks (one on the cam sprocket, the other on the edge of the valve cove) by turning the engine by hand, clockwise, using the 19mm bolt on the crank (where you removed the dampner pulley from earlier). While you have the belt off, you must make sure that these marks remain perfectly aligned. DO NOT use the top cam to turn the engine, always turn at the crank when the tbelt is installed!

Also make your own mark the lower toothed sprocket on the crank, just for your
own comfort of knowing that the sprocket remained in the same position throughout the
install. We scratched an arrow on the sprocket; as you can see in the picture that our arrow aligns with the tip of that protrusion in the metal above it. So after you have marked the top cam and the bottom crank continue to the next step you will also notice that the top cam is very hard to turn by hand so it wont most likely not move but marks are critical!

8. Remove the old tensioner and pulley. First remove 13mm the bolt holding the “guide pulley” (that’s what we’ll call it) on to the tensioner (green arrow); remove this pulley–save it. Now remove the two 10mm bolts holding the tensioner to the block (red arrows). Remove the 10mm nut holding the pulley on (as circled in yellow, partially hidden from view). The pulley/tensioner complex should now be free.

9. Remove the old pulley “stud” from the block; you won’t need it with the new tensioner/pulley. It’s 17mm.

WATER PUMP and THERMOSTAT change (5 steps total)

10. The engine should look like this now, the tensioner and timing belt had been removed. The water pump sits in the red area circled in the picture. Its not that hard to change so do it while you are in there, if you dont want to do this step skip to step # 16 and continue with the Timing belt change instructions

11. Use a screw drive and go through the whole in the P/S pulley there is a perfect crack that the screwdriver fits into so you can remove the 3 hex bolts that are attached to the waterpump. You might need to slightly hold against the belt so it doesnt slip on the pulley itself. The pulley attached to the waterpump is shaped like 2 plates against each other )( and will come off after the hex bolts are removed.

12. Now you need to use your screwdriver again and pry it in the whole of the other pulley for the oilpump and remove the red bolt circled in red. You dont have to worry if this pulley spins, it runs the pump and it very easy to turn. After you have removed that one you will have full access to the waterpump. The green dots indicate 10mm bolts that are holding the pump inside the housing, you will remove those after the next step.

13. The engine will still have coolant in it, so get your bucket from earlier ready again and remove the red waterpump drain plug. The coolant will drain out, now remove the 2 green 10mm bolts that are holding that black hose in the picture that is allready bended away in mine. This hose houses the thermostat and there will still be some coolant left splashing out so be prepared. Remove the old thermostat and remember that the spring part goes inside the pump housing then you reinstall it, the gasket comes in between the thermostat and the hose not the housing!

14. Bolt the hose back to the housing and remove the 10 bolts that are holding the waterpump to the housing, the pump should drop right out, now remove the old metal gasket and clean around the gasket area. Install the new gasket and pump in the same order as you removed it and reinstall the drain plug as well. Make sure that the gasket has a good seat and is not kinked anywere.

15. Reinstall the big pulley that you had taken off earlier in order to remove the bolts that were holding the pump in and where unreachable before. Tighten that one back up and move down to the newly installed waterpump. I hope you ordered new belts as well, use the new P/S belt and slide it over the P/S pulley and attach your )( plate pulleys with the belt. The new belt should be tight on those when you are tightening the pulley back onto the waterpump. You should now have a brand new thermostat and brand new pump installed with a brand new belt that powers both, arent those new belts nice looking compared to the old ones? You are now ready to continue with the timing belt install

16. Time to assemble and install the tensioner and pulley. First, attach the “guide pulley” to the new tensioner–hand tighten for now. Now install the new tensioner to the block. See below for assembly of the pulley and the misc. hardware. I forgot to snap a pic during the installation process, thus you get this VERY crude attempt at a 3D rendering.

Using a 14mm socket in your hand, slowly tighten the center bolt attaching the pulley to the block (careful not to cross-thread, if you feel resistance back it out and try again). The pulley setup should look like it does below. Now remove the brass-colored piece that hangs off the pulley; one bolt (blue arrow) attaches it to the pulley. The pulley should now be free to rotate, more on that later. You will need to remove this one so you can slide the new belt on and will reinstall it later on

17. Install the timing belt. Carefully slide the belt over the toothed sprockets, making sure that you don’t move the sprockets. I found it easier to wrap the large sprocket up top first, then the smaller ones at the bottom, then around the tensioner pulley. Be sure there is no slack in the area outlined in yellow

18. Almost done. Now it’s time to put that brass-colored piece back onto the pulley. See that hex hole in the pulley? Put an 8 mm allen key in that hole, and pull clockwise. This will allow you to align the hole on the brass piece with the hole on the pulley so you can put the bolt through and tighten it up. Go back and double check all the bolts for the tensioner and pulley, be sure they’re all tight (no torque specs at the moment).

19. Make sure your setup looks like below. If so, PULL THE PIN! (BTW, that’s Just Dave’s finger…..it’s the best pic I could get of him; he’s very elusive when the camera comes out

20. With the belt and tensioner now properly installed, hand-crank the engine around one full rotation to make sure your MARKS  on the top cam sprocket line up at the same time your mark on the bottom crank sprocket. Turn the bottom crank sprocket one full time and get back to your original mark you made earlier, if the bottom and top mark match up = everything is fine

21. That’s it…reverse the process and re-install all of the above. You do remember how it all went together, right? It is easier if you but the bolts you had taken off or loosened up back into the whole where they came from to make it easier during reassembly

There, you’ve just saved yourself roughly $900 in labor @ the stealership. All I ask is that you let me know you’ve completed it successfully (hey, if you want to send donations that’s fine as well

If you have any problems, questions, etc, you’re welcome to email me: andytn.a4@gmail.com. Good luck.

Andy wrote the original timing belt writeup

Stephan (BSK) added the the water pump and thermostat replacement Nov 2005, After using this article to change his own timing belt.

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng.html

2. With car running, open hood and locate the two vacuum lines leading to the intake manifold.

3. Take container of Sea Foam and pour 1/2 the bottle into a empty bowl or bottle. I used a dry and empty water bottle. Now you will not be needing the sea foam container any more.

4. Cut a strip of vacume line or whatever you may wish to use.

5. Attatch to the front intake bung.

6. Lean vacuum line into bottle, but do NOT submerge it in the sea foam.

7. With hand on the throttle body, or someone in the driver seat, raise RPM’s to 2500rpm and hold.

8. With engine at 2500 rpm tilt the bottle of liquid and VERY slowly let the end of the vacuum line touch the sea foam. If the engine begins to choke you are doing it too fast and need to stop so the engine can stabilize.

9. Continue this until 1/2 the liquid in the bottle is used then let the engine go back to idle.

10. Remove the vacuum line from the bottle but DO NOT shut of the engine.

11. Reattach the vacuum line to the front intake bung.

12. Locate the rear intake bung that leads to the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator).

13. I made a t-fitting to use in this section.

14. replace the vacuum line section with the t-fitting.

15. Run the vacuum line into the bottle with the remaining Sea foam.

Repeat steps 7 through 10
7. With hand on the throttle body, or someone in the driver seat, raise RPM’s to 2500rpm and hold.

8. With engine at 2500 rpm tilt the bottle of liquid and VERY slowly let the end of the vacuum line touch the sea foam. If the engine begins to choke you are doing it too fast and need to stop so the engine can stabilize.

9. Continue this until 1/2 the liquid in the bottle is used then let the engine go back to idle.

10. Remove the vacuum line from the bottle but DO NOT shut of the engine.

16. Reattach original vacuum line to the top intake bung and FPR

.
.
.
Turn off the vehicle and let it sit for 10 minutes.
.
.
.
17. Start vehicle and watch the smoke ploom out the exhaust… there will be a lot.

After 5 minutes:

18. Let sit for 15 minutes or until very little if any smoke is still exiting out the exhaust.

19. Go for a little drive allowing the RPM’s to reach 6000 rpm. Smoke will continue to exit the exhaust for ~2-5 minutes but will eventually stop.

20. You are now done and enjoy your car.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=190390

So you want to build your engine eh? That world of bigger turbos then the GTRS will be opened and the real fun times will begin. But where do you start? This will be a guide to what you will need from start to finish to have everything done right.

We will start out with the simple qestion, “I want to do rods, where do I start?”

Well, before ordering anything you need to know what type of rods you want. If you want to do just drop in rods with your stock pistons, with the 19mm wristpin (which is less safe than a 20mm wristpin, but can still take a beating), you have…

- Integrated Engineering Rods ($350)
- Pauter Rods ($800)

Now, if your ready to change your pistons out for bigger 20mm wristpin, you have a few more options.

- Carillo ($850-$1500)
- Scat ($350)
- Pauter ($750)
- IE ($330)
- Eurospec ($700)

Now, for those of you that decided to get pistons for this job way to go, you have a few options here as well.

- JE Pistons ($600)
- Mahle ($600)
- Wiseco ($600)
- OEM AEB Pistons (these come out of the 97-2000 A4s and have 20mm wristpins) ($100-$200)

Now, your rods (and pistons possibly) came in the mail and your all happy, however, youll need some more things to complete the transaction.

- rod bearings
- rear seal
- head bolts (or studs depending if you want to step up)
- head gasket
- timing belt kit
- pan sealant
- assembly lube
- pistons with rings or OEM rings if using stock pistons

Cool, your all set. Now, you want to make sure you have the tools for the whole job. Tools you will need are

- Torx Set
- Hex Set
- Metric Socket set
- Torque Wrench
- Ring Compressor
- Ring filers

——————————————————————————————————————————–

So F that 1.8T stuff man, your moving on to bigger and better things. You’re tired of this 1.8 stuff and your doing something about it. This is when the B5/B6 split becomes more apparent.

We will start off with the difference between the B5 and B6 1.8T engines.

In 1997, Audi introduced the AEB 1.8T, arguably the best 1.8T ever made. It had a free flowing head and strong bottom end (20mm wristpin) with forged internals. In the year 2000 this free flowing head was replaced with a small port head but kept the strong bottom end until it was replaced in 2001 by the weaker bottom end. In 2002, Audi came out with the AMB, basically a different block design altogether but with the same weaker bottom end and small port head.

Earlier Block Model – 058
Later Block Number – 06A

I will be using 058 and 06A a lot so stay focused here.

Now onto actual displacements. Engine builders round up quite often, which you will see here. Things to note here is that the stock bore is 81mm and the stock stroke is 86.4mm

86.4mm stroke = Stock 1.8T Cranks
92.8mm stroke = AEG/ABA Cranks
95.5mm stroke = TDI Crank

81mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1781cc
83mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1870cc
83.5mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1892.7cc
81mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 1913cc
83mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 2008cc
83.5mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 2033cc
83mm bore x 95.5mm stroke = 2066cc

It is possible to do more but if your going that big you need more info then this thread…

Now, for your custom pistons for this job, you have a few options here as well, just make sure you order them in time they usually take a month to make! Also, you can get many different Compression Ratios, I went with a 9:1 but talk to them about what you want, everyone’s needs are different.

- JE Pistons
- Supertech
- Wiseco

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If you have an 058 block, I’m going to assume your doing the bold route (2008cc) because it is easiest. Now, your basically pulling your whole engine apart to do this so it is much more detailed. Basically you just need one more part, the crank, so now you have

- Pistons
- Rods
- Crank (058 guys use the ABA crank for 2.0 builds)

“You will need to shave the walls on the inside of the block to make the 92.8mm crank with Scat rods work. Cyl #1 has to be shaved the most, then shave the inner reinforcement of #3 and the lower reinforcement of #3. No need to shave the wall on 4th cyl wall but the piston will hit the oil squirter. Answer: Run a copper shim to move the squirter up so it’ll clear the piston squirt.” – Paul@BF

A machined intermediate shaft is needed for everything to fit also. Check Paul’s thread for more info (listed at the bottom)

If you have an 06A block, I’m going to assume your doing the bold route (2008cc) because it is easiest (and even easier then 058 guys). Now, your basically pulling your whole engine apart to do this so it is much more detailed. Basically you just need one more part, the crank, so now you have

- Pistons
- Rods
- Crank (06A guys use the AEG crank a crank out of the new 2.0T FSI motors)

Now, because your motor is comming completely apart, you will most likely have more things to replace, keep in mind some of these may not be needed for you and some may be. Its all up to you. I would get some more opinions with your milage and such.

- crank bolt
- main bolts
- main bearings
- rod bearings
- rear seal
- head bolts (or studs depending on what you want to do)
- head gasket
- timing belt kit
- pan sealant
- assembly lube
- oil pump

Now, for the main bearings, there is a big controversy of which color is best. There are colors on the top bearings (the ones that sit on the top of the crank) that determine their crush factor apparently. Anyway, on the bottom of your block it should have letters, 5 of them, in a row. They should tell you what color your bearings are. Keep in mind that the letters are in German. Mine were Red (Rosen in German) so my block looked like this – RRRRR.

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Ok so you’ve gotten all your parts (although you know youll be at the dealer for those last minute things you break!), good. Now your off to find a machine shop.

WARNING

by this point I would assume that your ready to tear apart your motor. I would get a spare 06A block for myself (they float around Vortex a lot) and build that. My car was down for way too long and it sucked I could have saved myself a lot of trouble by having a spare block!

Ok so for the machine shop, you need to make sure they have done 1.8Ts that work before. Seriously make sure you have talked to someone with a running engine from their shop. Bring at the least your pistons to them, your going to want a

- 83mm Bore/Hone
- Hottank

and you can get whatever other options you want but its all up to you. I got the block decked also and the assembly balanced, but it doesnt matter because I think I mixed up 2 bearings, o well shit happens.

I paid $400 in all (crazy good deal) but the pricing gets way up there depending on the shop/amount of work

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Well, I cant really help you out on this part, it would be the assembly. Make sure if you dont know what your doing that you have someone help you who does or you leave it to professionals. Basically the hardest parts are torquing everything down, ring gapping (I snapped one of my rings in the process ), and getting timing right once the head is on.

Hope you all enjoyed this thread, let me know if you want to add anything else.

Refrences

http://audizine.com/forum/showthread…=105602&page=3

http://www.ducatitech.com/info/bore.html

Random Vortex 1.8T forum threads

Fig. 2: Do not overtighten the chain tensioner tool 3366, it can be damaged — 1.8L

8. Verify that the camshafts are at TDC for the No. 1 cylinder. Both camshaft markings must align with arrows on the bearing caps.
9. Clean the drive chain and the cam chain gears opposite both arrows on the bearing caps. Matchmark the installed position using paint.

NOTE: The distance between the 2 arrows/paint marks is equivalent to 16 drive chain rollers and the notch on the exhaust camshaft is slightly offset inward toward the drive chain roller.

Fig. 3: To ensure proper installation, matchmark the chain-to-camshaft position — 1.8L

Fig. 4: Camshaft bearing cap identification — 1.8L engine

10. Remove or disconnect the following:
* Bearing caps No. 3 and 5 from the intake and exhaust camshafts
* Double bearing cap
* Both bearing caps from the chain gears on the intake and exhaust camshafts
* Hydraulic chain tensioner retaining bolts
* Intake and exhaust manifold bearing caps No. 2 and 4 by loosening them in an alternating and diagonal sequence
* Camshafts with the hydraulic chain tensioner

To install:

Fig. 5: To ensure a proper seal, be sure to apply sealant to the hatched area — 1.8L

11. Replace the rubber/metal chain tensioner gasket and apply sealant to the hatched area, as shown.
12. Install or connect the following:
* Drive chain on the camshaft

NOTE: If installing the old chain, align the paint marks with the camshaft marks. If installing a new chain, the distance between the notches A and B on the camshafts must equal the distance between 16 drive chain rollers.
* Hydraulic chain tensioner by sliding it between the drive chain
* Camshafts with the chain tensioner lubricated with engine oil into the cylinder head
NOTE: When installing the bearing caps, verify the markings on the caps are readable from the intake side of the cylinder head.
* Intake and exhaust camshafts bearing caps No. 2 and 4. Tighten them in an alternating diagonal sequence to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
* Both the intake and exhaust camshafts bearing caps on the chain sprockets. Tighten the bolts to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
13. Verify the correct positions of the camshafts.
14. Remove the bracket tensioner.
15. Install or connect the following:
* Cylinder head-to-double bearing cap mating surface by lightly coating it with sealant. Tighten the remaining bearing caps to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
* Camshaft gear. Tighten the bolt to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
* CMP shutter wheel and housing cover
* Valve cover
16. Align the camshaft gear and the vibration damper with the TDC markings.
17. Install or connect the following:
* Timing belt
* Accessory drive belts and the engine cover
* Lock carrier
* Negative battery cable
18. Fully close all power windows to stop, operate all window switches for at least 1 second in the close direction to activate the one-touch opening/closing function

CAUTION
After installing the lifters or the camshaft(s), the engine must NOT be started for at least 30 minutes. Otherwise the valves could strike the pistons. Rotate the engine by hand, at least 2 revolutions, to ensure that the valves do not strike the pistons.

19. Check the oil level before starting the engine.
20. Set the clock to the correct time.
21. Enter the radio security code.

NOTE: DTCs may be stored when harness connectors are detached.

22. Read the DTCs and clear the fault codes.
23. Adjust the headlights.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3425946

Quote, originally posted by CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL & INSTALLATION »

CAUTION Cylinder head removal should not be attempted unless the engine is cold. 1.8L Engine 1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section. 2. Remove or disconnect the following: * Front bumper 3. Place the hood lock carrier into the service position. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 5. Remove or disconnect the following: * Negative battery cable * Accessory drive belt * Cooling fan 6. Drain the engine coolant. 7. Remove or disconnect the following: * Intake manifold * Accessory drive belts * Wastegate bypass regulator valve * Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) canister purge regulator valve * Power outage stage * Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor * Air cleaner housing * Engine Temperature Control (ETC) and the temperature II sensor harness connector * All connections from the cylinder head * Crankcase breather line * Oil supply line at the cylinder head * Exhaust manifold heat shield * Turbocharger from the exhaust manifold * Coolant hose to the heat exchanger at the rear of the cylinder head * Upper timing belt cover 8. Turn the crankshaft, in the direction of rotation (clockwise), until the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC. 9. Using Torx® wrench T45, loosen the timing belt tensioner. 10. Push down on the tensioner and remove the belt from the camshaft gear. 11. Remove or disconnect the following: * Torx® bolt and swing the tensioner assembly bracket forward * Valve cover * Cylinder head bolts, in sequence, as shown * Cylinder head 12. Clean the gasket mating surfaces. 13. Clean and dry out the cylinder head bolt holes.To install: NOTE: Always replace the cylinder head bolts, self-locking nuts, bolts, gaskets and O-rings. NOTE: Refer to Section 1 of this manual for the cylinder head torque sequence illustration. The illustration is located after the Torque Specification Chart. 14. Before installing the cylinder head, set the crankshaft and camshaft to TDC for the No. 1 cylinder. 15. Loosen the turbocharger support bracket to reduce the likelihood of any tension while installing the cylinder head. 16. Install or connect the following: * Head gasket with the part number visible from the intake side * Cylinder head * New cylinder head bolts, tighten by hand 17. Tighten the new cylinder head bolts in sequence in 2 steps: Step 1: 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) Step 2: additional 1⁄2 (180 degree) turn NOTE: It is not necessary to retighten the cylinder head bolts. 18. Install or connect the following: * Turbocharger to the exhaust manifold using new gaskets and the bolts coated with Hot Bolt Paste G 052 112 A3. Tighten the bolts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm). * Turbo support bracket. Tighten the bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). * Valve cover * Timing belt * Accessory drive belts * Exhaust manifold heat shield * Oil supply lines to the cylinder head. Tighten the retaining straps to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). * Crankcase breather * Any other items removed during disassembly * Coolant temperature sensors * Air cleaner housing 19. Fill the engine with coolant and bleed, if necessary. 20. Connect the negative battery cable. 21. Fully close all power windows to stop, operate all window switches for at least 1 second in the close direction to activate the one touch opening/closing function. 22. Check the oil level before starting the engine and top off, as necessary. 23. Set the clock to the correct time. NOTE: DTCs are stored when harness connectors are detached. 24. Clear the fault codes, as necessary. 25. Install or connect the following: * Hood lock carrier assembly * Front bumper 26. Adjust the headlights.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3425946

Quote, originally posted by CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL & INSTALLATION »

CAUTION Cylinder head removal should not be attempted unless the engine is cold. 1.8L Engine 1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section. 2. Remove or disconnect the following: * Front bumper 3. Place the hood lock carrier into the service position. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 5. Remove or disconnect the following: * Negative battery cable * Accessory drive belt * Cooling fan 6. Drain the engine coolant. 7. Remove or disconnect the following: * Intake manifold * Accessory drive belts * Wastegate bypass regulator valve * Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) canister purge regulator valve * Power outage stage * Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor * Air cleaner housing * Engine Temperature Control (ETC) and the temperature II sensor harness connector * All connections from the cylinder head * Crankcase breather line * Oil supply line at the cylinder head * Exhaust manifold heat shield * Turbocharger from the exhaust manifold * Coolant hose to the heat exchanger at the rear of the cylinder head * Upper timing belt cover 8. Turn the crankshaft, in the direction of rotation (clockwise), until the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC. 9. Using Torx® wrench T45, loosen the timing belt tensioner. 10. Push down on the tensioner and remove the belt from the camshaft gear. 11. Remove or disconnect the following: * Torx® bolt and swing the tensioner assembly bracket forward * Valve cover * Cylinder head bolts, in sequence, as shown * Cylinder head 12. Clean the gasket mating surfaces. 13. Clean and dry out the cylinder head bolt holes.To install: NOTE: Always replace the cylinder head bolts, self-locking nuts, bolts, gaskets and O-rings. NOTE: Refer to Section 1 of this manual for the cylinder head torque sequence illustration. The illustration is located after the Torque Specification Chart. 14. Before installing the cylinder head, set the crankshaft and camshaft to TDC for the No. 1 cylinder. 15. Loosen the turbocharger support bracket to reduce the likelihood of any tension while installing the cylinder head. 16. Install or connect the following: * Head gasket with the part number visible from the intake side * Cylinder head * New cylinder head bolts, tighten by hand 17. Tighten the new cylinder head bolts in sequence in 2 steps: Step 1: 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) Step 2: additional 1⁄2 (180 degree) turn NOTE: It is not necessary to retighten the cylinder head bolts. 18. Install or connect the following: * Turbocharger to the exhaust manifold using new gaskets and the bolts coated with Hot Bolt Paste G 052 112 A3. Tighten the bolts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm). * Turbo support bracket. Tighten the bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). * Valve cover * Timing belt * Accessory drive belts * Exhaust manifold heat shield * Oil supply lines to the cylinder head. Tighten the retaining straps to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). * Crankcase breather * Any other items removed during disassembly * Coolant temperature sensors * Air cleaner housing 19. Fill the engine with coolant and bleed, if necessary. 20. Connect the negative battery cable. 21. Fully close all power windows to stop, operate all window switches for at least 1 second in the close direction to activate the one touch opening/closing function. 22. Check the oil level before starting the engine and top off, as necessary. 23. Set the clock to the correct time. NOTE: DTCs are stored when harness connectors are detached. 24. Clear the fault codes, as necessary. 25. Install or connect the following: * Hood lock carrier assembly * Front bumper 26. Adjust the headlights.

Ok here we go:

Do you have to remove the timing belt to take off the head? Yes and No.

I do not remember the exact allen sizes because I bought the Switch-out allen key tool from Autozone, this helps tremendously and is only $10, Everything else is off the top of my head.

Plan to take everything apart , unless you know the secret to put the belt on w/o putting it in service position, i know how to do it , but didnt have the tools, the hard part is putting the belt back on out of service pos. and tensioning it w/o the right tools, but dont sweat it.

There are writeups for the Timing belt, but not for head removal.- Plan on putting the car in service position, then work on the head. Get down to the timing belt (service position) Then just remove the Hydraulic dampener and take the belt off – Dont forget the cam sensor . If you are in a rush,and are replacing the belt you can CAREFULLY remove the belt from the cam gear– Pull side to side then easily use a blunt object to slowly push the belt off the teeth, side by side, carefully and slowly.

Once its off , start disconnecting the exhaust manifold bolts first-The bolt (size 17) nearest the head is a toughguy, use a small ratchet in there and remove it while it still has room to be pulled out, then use an open ended wrench to take it out.

After the EM, start at the Throttle body , remove hose and throttle body (4 screws, size 6 or 8 allen i believe) Remove throttle cable and 2 bolts holding it in. Unhook cruise control nipple. Now is the time to remove the lines under the Intake manifold. There are two. Remove those hoses easily and disconnect throttle body sensor wire. Now remove the 10mm Allen bolt for the IM brace. Then, work your way to the black cooling line that runs from the upper rad hose. Remove those screws holding the metal hose down to the IM. Then there is a connection at the corner of the head that goes down to the filter . Disconnect that hose (using pliers), then start working at the rear head coolant flange. 2 size 10 bolts await you. Try to unscrew these with care, they are sensitive and so is the flange. After that, remove remaining hoses from Coolant flange, 2 I believe , 1 rear , 1 right side. Replace all those gaskets and do not lose clips. Pull and replace Coolant temp sensor while you are at it.

While back there, remove the 2 10mm bolts that connect the rear head flange to the radiator hose. After that, remove the bolt holding down the metal coolant line going across the head and swing out of the way.

Remove Fuel rail and injectors. Youll need a 6mm Allen to get the 2 bolts holding down the rail. After they are out, the injectors pop out with a straight pull. Now remove the 10 10 mm bolts holding down the VC. After that, remove coil pack ground (size 10 as well) then, remove coilpacks and peel them back , resting in them behind the firewall. Remove PCV line that is bolted to VC ( 2 allen bolts) Remove valve cover and carefully set aside, upside-down. Your almost there.

Now: Onto removing the headbolts-

There are two tools that are required for some.

For earlier B5’s (97-98.5, maybe 99.5), you need those two. (Go figure)

First, Go to Napa. Get their headbolt kit (GM) , Its cheap. You are looking for a 12 point.

One of the 5 tools is going to fit our headbolts. From there the tool is short, It’ll only remove the center headbolts and not the bolts in the corners of the Head, as they have a deep well. Well, To solve this problem, I welded a ratchet extension onto the tool itself. ( Or pay someone, cant be more than $5) Make sure they (or you) grind down the weld in order to avoid scraping the walls of the head.

Newer B5 Guys : : You need this Poly-Drive tool::

From here – http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.as…CTMP=1&LowCt=0

(its a 1/2″ drive type)

Earlier B5 guys, You have to have this as well after removing headbolts because when you buy new ones (which you have to), they will be Poly-Drive bolts.

First, Naturally, Remove the Valve cover– Ten 10mm nuts hold it on, as well as the coil packs. They are easy to remove, But remember when pulling the VC up, Pull Evenly from each side, or else it will get stuck and its pretty annoying if you dont.

Removing Headbolts

Removing the headbolts requires a removal pattern in this order:

(Intake cam being the Bottom Row)

1 7 9 5 3

[4 6] 10 8 2 — Parenthese= Plastic Splash cover

They loosen up easy, but make sure you keep unscrewing, as the threads are long.

The head is ready to come off. Put the valve cover back on (just one screw will do) If you are doing it alone like I did, start to break it free from the block easily and rotate and move it around. After it gives weigh, Grab the exhaust manifold and the base of the runners and lift evenly and have something right next to you ready to rest it on, Its not light. Easily place it upside down, resting on the VC on a soft surface, I used a “boogie board” which was made out of strong foam.

And her head’s off:

The red dots signify my bent valves (if you can’t already tell)

While you have the head off, now is a great time to replace a few more things and one mandatory thing:

-I cleaned my squish area just a bit and as well as the surrounding area. Some may argue that it needs to be dirty to form a nice seal, But after cleaning mine, I had zero issues.

-Replace stock oil feed line to the turbo

-Replace PVC pipe from the block , Part number 058 103 213 (wasnt expensive)
http://www.scottweese.com/images/pcv/old_new.jpg

This is a culprit to boost loss and very hard to replace w/ the IM on.

- Onto the mandatory part, you guessed it, The Head gasket ($60)

When you are ready to install the head (dont remove gasket from pkging until you are ready), installation is reverse of removal w/ a few exceptions:

-Remember to PROPERLY install headgasket rightside up with Audi VW emblem facing UP in the lower right hand corner of the head, quite a few people had made this mistake and had to repeat the process all over again.

-Replace coolant

-Remember to replace all coolant line and flange washers

And most importantly,

Install Headbolts in this specific order

Intake cam being the bottom row-

10 4 2 6 8

[7 5] 1 3 9

Start w/ your regular 1/2″ ratchet then torque to 44 lb Ft (60 NM) After that, Take your Regular half inch ratchet and Give an additional HALF TURN. I used two quarter turns for extra control.

- Try to get some help installing the Head if you can- youll need it when trying to line it up with the points. If you cant, take your time and set easily. After it is set, test to see if the head easily moves out of place, if it does, then its not in the right place.

Before you put the VC on, pour some oil over the cams and valves for startup and start connecting the exhaust mani and the rest after you set the Timing belt to TDC and your all done and saved yourself massive amounts of money.

And thats it! Whole process maybe took an hour and a half , wasnt hard right?

NOTE: When setting engine to TDC, set crank a few teeth before TDC if the head isnt already at TDC. This will avoid any compression and allow you to adjust the cam sprocket accordingly with the safety of avoiding the bending of valves.

Now enjoy putting everything else back together!

For those of you that have front mounted intercoolers and that take your car to the track, you’ve probably already experienced overheating on hot days. Regardless, an oil cooler provides additional protection to modified turbocharged Audi engines. This install was performed on a 1997 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro with an SPP front mount intercooler. Installation on any other vehicle may vary from the following guide.

No liability is assumed by the author for the use or interpretation of information contained within this article – all decisions based on the information provided herein are the responsibility of the individual user. The user understands that any modifications to the car can void warranty.

PARTS LIST
1 ea. 48 Plate Mesa oil cooler, part #3080-11………………………………………………$59.99
1 ea. Mocal sandwich plate, 3/4 x 16 with 180 degree thermostat, part #10.117.304K..99.95
1 ea. Shorter threaded 3/4 x 16 nipple for oil filter mount, part #1234-3/4 x 16……….3.49
3 ft. XRP push-on hoses, size 10, part #340010…………………………………………………6.00
2 ea. Straight push-on hose ends, size 10, part #230010…………………………………….7.50
2 ea. 45 Degree push-on hose ends, size 10, part #234510……………………………….24.00
4 ea. Male size 10 flare to 1/2″ NPT pipe adapter, part #98160…………………………..5.35
4 ea. Snap type hose clamps, part #81840……………………………………………………1.46
2 ft. Aluminum L material, part #ALUM 1″ X 18″ Crown Bolt 1/16″ thick
5 ea. Bolts, Nyloc lock nuts and washers, 6mm x 12mm
1 ea. Bolt, 6mm x 20 mm bolt
1 roll Teflon Tape
2 ea. Sheet metal screws, 7mm x 20 mm (approx.)
Total (approx.)…………………………………………………………………………………. 223.67

SOURCES:
Porterfield : (porterfield-brakes.com) Hoses, hose ends, hose clamps.
Pegasus Racing: (pegasusautoracing.com) Shorter threaded nipple for oil filter installation.
VWParts: (vwparts.net) Mesa oil cooler.
PUREMotorsports: (pure-motorsports.com) Mocal sandwich plate.
Home Depot (homedepot.com) Sheet metal screws, Teflon tape, metric nuts and bolts, aluminum L bracket material.

TOOLS/SUPPLIES LIST:
Floor jack and jack stands
Metric sockets: 10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 19mm (12 point), 26mm (or 1″)
Allen sockets: 5mm, 6mm, 8mm
Breaker bar
Torx sockets: T45, T30
Set of metric wrenches
Fresh G12 Coolant (2-3 bottles if you change the coolant)
New Audi filter
5 Quarts of oil
2 Buckets to catch coolant and windshield washer fluid if you want to reuse those
Drill
9/32 drill bit
Screwdrivers, phillips and standard
Hammer
Center punch
Vice grips or channel locks
Hack saw
Dremel with cutting wheel

Step 1 Disassembly
Remove front clip. Although removing the bumper, bumper supports, A/C condenser and radiator may be optional; removing it provides additional room to work.
For a detailed step-by-step procedure on how to review the front clip, follow the first six steps from Andy TN’s timing belt replacement on Audiworld’s tech articles.

The only difference is that you’ll also be removing your FMIC and a few other parts to improve access.
Once you’ve completed step six of Andy’s timing belt tech article and everything is out of the way, proceed with the next steps:
- Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
- Remove the coolant overflow tank and electrical connector.
- Remove driver’s side wheel/tire.
- Remove the driver’s side wheel liner.

Step 2 Remove existing oil cooler
Remove existing oil cooler and coolant lines.

Oil Cooler Installation and Removal

Remove the jam nut (8) from the threaded tube (5) that goes through the middle of the oil cooler (7). Then unscrew the threaded tube (5) for oil cooler. Use a vice grips or similar tool to unscrew the threaded tube. You can cut and reuse the original tube if you don’t damage it. If you plan to cut it and reuse it, use care to not damage the threads when removing. Wrap threads with a towel or similar item to protect.

Remove the feed line and return hoses from the oil cooler. Using pliers, squeeze the clamps and slide them up and off the oil cooler. Then pull off both hoses. You will re-use the hose 058 121 058 A that goes from the throttle valve housing to the oil cooler. To be safe, you can purchase a new hose, although mine looked to be in good condition so I just reused it.
The oil cooler should basically fall off at this point.

Oil Cooler Removed

Step 3 Prepare oil cooler for installation
Trim oil cooler bracket. The oil cooler on the right hand side must be trimmed to fit; otherwise it will contact the washer fluid reservoir. Trim two inches from the right hand support bracket as shown. You’ll also need to drill a 6mm hole on the right hand side, measured 4 1/2″ from the bottom.

Wrap the two male flare to pipe adapter fittings with Teflon tape and install them into the oil cooler.

Step 4 Fabricate brackets for oil cooler
Three aluminum brackets must be fabricated to support the oil cooler.
* The first bracket will attach to the left side of the oil cooler to the frame of the car.

bracket 1 Take the angle aluminum and cut it to 8-1/4″ in length, slightly shorter than the inlet and outlet on the Mesa cooler. Align the bracket with the oil cooler and mark the holes. They should be 1-1/2″ and 6-7/8″ from the top of the angled aluminum. Drill two 9/32″ holes for mounting the Mesa cooler to the bracket. Mark the holes on the other side of the angle aluminum that will screw into the frame. Mark the first hole 2″ from the top and the other 3″ from the top. Now, bolt the angle aluminum to the cooler and test fit it to the car frame just to be sure the holes you are about to drill are centered vertically to the frame. The bracket and cooler should be positioned so that the top of the cooler is just below the top edge of the old SMIC mount. If everything looks good, remove the bracket and drill the two holes for the sheet metal screws that will go into the frame.

bracket 2 The second bracket will support the cooler from the top. The overall length is 5-1/2″. You’ll need to make two cuts to leave a 1-1/2″ tab at top and a 45-degree angle. Drill a 9/32″ hole in the center of the tab for the bolt.
bracket 3 The third bracket will support the cooler from the back. Cut the aluminum stock 4-7/8″, trim 3/4″ from each end so that the bracket can have two angled tabs as shown. Drill 1/4″ hole in the center of each tab for the bolts.

Step 5 Install the oil cooler and supports
Test fit cooler again with all three brackets loosely attached.

The left-hand bracket should be placed so that the top of the cooler is just below the top edge of the old SMIC mount. Mark the holes from the left side bracket onto the frame. Note where the top and back brackets will be attached. The top bracket will bolt into the old SMIC bracket and the back bracket will bolt into the existing fender mount using a longer bolt in place of the existing bolt.
Install the side mount bracket. Make sure the holes are centered, then use a drill punch to mark the holes and drill holes in frame.
Temporarily mount oil cooler. Attach the left-hand bracket to the frame with two sheet metal screws and bolt the oil cooler to the frame. Recheck the fitment of the cooler and the two other brackets. Mark the hole in the SMIC for the top bracket, use center punch and drill hole.

Loosely bolt in place. Using the longer bolt, attach back bracket. Make sure that the wires that run under the top inlet are clipped in place and won’t be damaged by any heat off of the oil cooler. Wrap with thermal wire protection if needed.

Check that all brackets fit properly, then tighten all the bolts and nuts down.

Step 6 Install Mocal Cooler
Install Mocal cooler.

Install the two short blue fittings into the sandwich adapter using pipe thread tape. At this time also wrap the other end with pipe thread tape so it is ready to accept the oil lines from the cooler. Install brass looking threaded tube into the engine block, then the Mocal cooler adapter and the jam nut. (The other red knob unit is a snub mount that I installed at the same time) Tighten jam nut to 18 ft-lbs. Oil the filter gasket on the new oil filter and spin it on tight, plus a half turn. Install the oil drain plug so we are ready to begin adding oil.

Step 7 Assemble oil lines
Double check length. Take the lines and check that they are the correct lengths. They should have some slack and be routed so they won’t rub on other existing lines. Once you are satisfied that the line length listed above is correct, cut the lines and install the hose ends.

Assemble bottom line. Using 17 1/2″ line, push the oil line onto one of the straight ends with washer. Then slide both clamps onto the hose and install the 45-degree end with washer. Recheck fit.
Assemble top line. Using 12 1/2″ line, assembly will be same as the bottom line. Recheck fit. Then clamp all the fittings to the lines. Use a vice grips or channel locks to secure the clamps. I wasn’t sure exactly where to clamp the lines in relation to the ridges on the hose ends. I tried both positions, one right on the highest point of the ridge and the others in the lowest point. So far, no difference and no leaks.

Step 8 Install Line Sets
Install oil lines. The male fittings should already be wrapped with pipe thread tape. Install the bottom line set. The 45-degree fitting goes on the oil cooler and the straight fitting goes to the sandwich plate.

I didn’t torque the fittings, but they are very tight. Install the top line to the cooler only. Holding the line up, prefill the lines and cooler with oil. Once the lines and cooler are full of oil, install the other end of the line to the sandwich adapter.

Step 9 Reinstallation of all other components
Install coolant lines. Since the coolant lines will bypass the oil cooler they need to be rerouted. Using the long line, route it from the upper coolant hose to the lower heater core coolant hose. Clamp both ends of the hose. Reuse existing clamps or purchase new screw clamps. (I reused OEM clamps)
Fill with system with coolant. Be sure to purge the air from the system.

Step 10 Final Preparation
Fill engine with oil. New capacity is roughly 5 quarts of oil. Check dipstick as you fill.
Start the car and check for leaks. Since the oil cooler lines won’t be carrying any oil until the thermostat reached 180 degrees (the preset temp for the Mocal thermostat) be sure to recheck the system for leaks the first time the engine oil reaches 180 degrees.
There you go, nice clean install. Looks nearly stock.