Ray's World

So you want to build your engine eh? That world of bigger turbos then the GTRS will be opened and the real fun times will begin. But where do you start? This will be a guide to what you will need from start to finish to have everything done right.

We will start out with the simple qestion, “I want to do rods, where do I start?”

Well, before ordering anything you need to know what type of rods you want. If you want to do just drop in rods with your stock pistons, with the 19mm wristpin (which is less safe than a 20mm wristpin, but can still take a beating), you have…

- Integrated Engineering Rods ($350)
- Pauter Rods ($800)

Now, if your ready to change your pistons out for bigger 20mm wristpin, you have a few more options.

- Carillo ($850-$1500)
- Scat ($350)
- Pauter ($750)
- IE ($330)
- Eurospec ($700)

Now, for those of you that decided to get pistons for this job way to go, you have a few options here as well.

- JE Pistons ($600)
- Mahle ($600)
- Wiseco ($600)
- OEM AEB Pistons (these come out of the 97-2000 A4s and have 20mm wristpins) ($100-$200)

Now, your rods (and pistons possibly) came in the mail and your all happy, however, youll need some more things to complete the transaction.

- rod bearings
- rear seal
- head bolts (or studs depending if you want to step up)
- head gasket
- timing belt kit
- pan sealant
- assembly lube
- pistons with rings or OEM rings if using stock pistons

Cool, your all set. Now, you want to make sure you have the tools for the whole job. Tools you will need are

- Torx Set
- Hex Set
- Metric Socket set
- Torque Wrench
- Ring Compressor
- Ring filers

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So F that 1.8T stuff man, your moving on to bigger and better things. You’re tired of this 1.8 stuff and your doing something about it. This is when the B5/B6 split becomes more apparent.

We will start off with the difference between the B5 and B6 1.8T engines.

In 1997, Audi introduced the AEB 1.8T, arguably the best 1.8T ever made. It had a free flowing head and strong bottom end (20mm wristpin) with forged internals. In the year 2000 this free flowing head was replaced with a small port head but kept the strong bottom end until it was replaced in 2001 by the weaker bottom end. In 2002, Audi came out with the AMB, basically a different block design altogether but with the same weaker bottom end and small port head.

Earlier Block Model – 058
Later Block Number – 06A

I will be using 058 and 06A a lot so stay focused here.

Now onto actual displacements. Engine builders round up quite often, which you will see here. Things to note here is that the stock bore is 81mm and the stock stroke is 86.4mm

86.4mm stroke = Stock 1.8T Cranks
92.8mm stroke = AEG/ABA Cranks
95.5mm stroke = TDI Crank

81mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1781cc
83mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1870cc
83.5mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1892.7cc
81mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 1913cc
83mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 2008cc
83.5mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 2033cc
83mm bore x 95.5mm stroke = 2066cc

It is possible to do more but if your going that big you need more info then this thread…

Now, for your custom pistons for this job, you have a few options here as well, just make sure you order them in time they usually take a month to make! Also, you can get many different Compression Ratios, I went with a 9:1 but talk to them about what you want, everyone’s needs are different.

- JE Pistons
- Supertech
- Wiseco

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If you have an 058 block, I’m going to assume your doing the bold route (2008cc) because it is easiest. Now, your basically pulling your whole engine apart to do this so it is much more detailed. Basically you just need one more part, the crank, so now you have

- Pistons
- Rods
- Crank (058 guys use the ABA crank for 2.0 builds)

“You will need to shave the walls on the inside of the block to make the 92.8mm crank with Scat rods work. Cyl #1 has to be shaved the most, then shave the inner reinforcement of #3 and the lower reinforcement of #3. No need to shave the wall on 4th cyl wall but the piston will hit the oil squirter. Answer: Run a copper shim to move the squirter up so it’ll clear the piston squirt.” – Paul@BF

A machined intermediate shaft is needed for everything to fit also. Check Paul’s thread for more info (listed at the bottom)

If you have an 06A block, I’m going to assume your doing the bold route (2008cc) because it is easiest (and even easier then 058 guys). Now, your basically pulling your whole engine apart to do this so it is much more detailed. Basically you just need one more part, the crank, so now you have

- Pistons
- Rods
- Crank (06A guys use the AEG crank a crank out of the new 2.0T FSI motors)

Now, because your motor is comming completely apart, you will most likely have more things to replace, keep in mind some of these may not be needed for you and some may be. Its all up to you. I would get some more opinions with your milage and such.

- crank bolt
- main bolts
- main bearings
- rod bearings
- rear seal
- head bolts (or studs depending on what you want to do)
- head gasket
- timing belt kit
- pan sealant
- assembly lube
- oil pump

Now, for the main bearings, there is a big controversy of which color is best. There are colors on the top bearings (the ones that sit on the top of the crank) that determine their crush factor apparently. Anyway, on the bottom of your block it should have letters, 5 of them, in a row. They should tell you what color your bearings are. Keep in mind that the letters are in German. Mine were Red (Rosen in German) so my block looked like this – RRRRR.

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Ok so you’ve gotten all your parts (although you know youll be at the dealer for those last minute things you break!), good. Now your off to find a machine shop.

WARNING

by this point I would assume that your ready to tear apart your motor. I would get a spare 06A block for myself (they float around Vortex a lot) and build that. My car was down for way too long and it sucked I could have saved myself a lot of trouble by having a spare block!

Ok so for the machine shop, you need to make sure they have done 1.8Ts that work before. Seriously make sure you have talked to someone with a running engine from their shop. Bring at the least your pistons to them, your going to want a

- 83mm Bore/Hone
- Hottank

and you can get whatever other options you want but its all up to you. I got the block decked also and the assembly balanced, but it doesnt matter because I think I mixed up 2 bearings, o well shit happens.

I paid $400 in all (crazy good deal) but the pricing gets way up there depending on the shop/amount of work

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Well, I cant really help you out on this part, it would be the assembly. Make sure if you dont know what your doing that you have someone help you who does or you leave it to professionals. Basically the hardest parts are torquing everything down, ring gapping (I snapped one of my rings in the process ), and getting timing right once the head is on.

Hope you all enjoyed this thread, let me know if you want to add anything else.

Refrences

http://audizine.com/forum/showthread…=105602&page=3

http://www.ducatitech.com/info/bore.html

Random Vortex 1.8T forum threads

1.8L Engine
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the camshaft mounting and related components — 1.8L engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
4. Place the lock carrier into the service position.
5. Remove or disconnect the following:
* Accessory drive belts
* Engine covers
* Timing belt upper cover
6. Turn the crankshaft, in the direction of rotation (clockwise), until the No. 1 cylinder is at Top Dead Center (TDC).
7. Remove or disconnect the following:
* Timing belt tensioner by loosening it using Torx® wrench T45
* Belt from the camshaft gear by pushing the tensioner downward
* Torx® bolt and swing the tensioner assembly bracket forward
* Valve cover
* Cam gear retaining bolt by loosening it using retainer tool 3036
* Camshaft gear
* Camshaft Position (CMP) housing sensor and shutter wheel
* Hydraulic chain tensioner by securing it with bracket tensioner tool 3366

Fig. 2: Do not overtighten the chain tensioner tool 3366, it can be damaged — 1.8L

8. Verify that the camshafts are at TDC for the No. 1 cylinder. Both camshaft markings must align with arrows on the bearing caps.
9. Clean the drive chain and the cam chain gears opposite both arrows on the bearing caps. Matchmark the installed position using paint.

NOTE: The distance between the 2 arrows/paint marks is equivalent to 16 drive chain rollers and the notch on the exhaust camshaft is slightly offset inward toward the drive chain roller.

Fig. 3: To ensure proper installation, matchmark the chain-to-camshaft position — 1.8L

Fig. 4: Camshaft bearing cap identification — 1.8L engine

10. Remove or disconnect the following:
* Bearing caps No. 3 and 5 from the intake and exhaust camshafts
* Double bearing cap
* Both bearing caps from the chain gears on the intake and exhaust camshafts
* Hydraulic chain tensioner retaining bolts
* Intake and exhaust manifold bearing caps No. 2 and 4 by loosening them in an alternating and diagonal sequence
* Camshafts with the hydraulic chain tensioner

To install:

Fig. 5: To ensure a proper seal, be sure to apply sealant to the hatched area — 1.8L

11. Replace the rubber/metal chain tensioner gasket and apply sealant to the hatched area, as shown.
12. Install or connect the following:
* Drive chain on the camshaft

NOTE: If installing the old chain, align the paint marks with the camshaft marks. If installing a new chain, the distance between the notches A and B on the camshafts must equal the distance between 16 drive chain rollers.
* Hydraulic chain tensioner by sliding it between the drive chain
* Camshafts with the chain tensioner lubricated with engine oil into the cylinder head
NOTE: When installing the bearing caps, verify the markings on the caps are readable from the intake side of the cylinder head.
* Intake and exhaust camshafts bearing caps No. 2 and 4. Tighten them in an alternating diagonal sequence to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
* Both the intake and exhaust camshafts bearing caps on the chain sprockets. Tighten the bolts to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
13. Verify the correct positions of the camshafts.
14. Remove the bracket tensioner.
15. Install or connect the following:
* Cylinder head-to-double bearing cap mating surface by lightly coating it with sealant. Tighten the remaining bearing caps to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
* Camshaft gear. Tighten the bolt to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
* CMP shutter wheel and housing cover
* Valve cover
16. Align the camshaft gear and the vibration damper with the TDC markings.
17. Install or connect the following:
* Timing belt
* Accessory drive belts and the engine cover
* Lock carrier
* Negative battery cable
18. Fully close all power windows to stop, operate all window switches for at least 1 second in the close direction to activate the one-touch opening/closing function

CAUTION
After installing the lifters or the camshaft(s), the engine must NOT be started for at least 30 minutes. Otherwise the valves could strike the pistons. Rotate the engine by hand, at least 2 revolutions, to ensure that the valves do not strike the pistons.

19. Check the oil level before starting the engine.
20. Set the clock to the correct time.
21. Enter the radio security code.

NOTE: DTCs may be stored when harness connectors are detached.

22. Read the DTCs and clear the fault codes.
23. Adjust the headlights.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3425946

Another Head Removal DIY to use as a supplement to

Quote, originally posted by CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL & INSTALLATION »

CAUTION Cylinder head removal should not be attempted unless the engine is cold. 1.8L Engine 1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section. 2. Remove or disconnect the following: * Front bumper 3. Place the hood lock carrier into the service position. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 5. Remove or disconnect the following: * Negative battery cable * Accessory drive belt * Cooling fan 6. Drain the engine coolant. 7. Remove or disconnect the following: * Intake manifold * Accessory drive belts * Wastegate bypass regulator valve * Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) canister purge regulator valve * Power outage stage * Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor * Air cleaner housing * Engine Temperature Control (ETC) and the temperature II sensor harness connector * All connections from the cylinder head * Crankcase breather line * Oil supply line at the cylinder head * Exhaust manifold heat shield * Turbocharger from the exhaust manifold * Coolant hose to the heat exchanger at the rear of the cylinder head * Upper timing belt cover 8. Turn the crankshaft, in the direction of rotation (clockwise), until the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC. 9. Using Torx® wrench T45, loosen the timing belt tensioner. 10. Push down on the tensioner and remove the belt from the camshaft gear. 11. Remove or disconnect the following: * Torx® bolt and swing the tensioner assembly bracket forward * Valve cover * Cylinder head bolts, in sequence, as shown * Cylinder head 12. Clean the gasket mating surfaces. 13. Clean and dry out the cylinder head bolt holes.To install: NOTE: Always replace the cylinder head bolts, self-locking nuts, bolts, gaskets and O-rings. NOTE: Refer to Section 1 of this manual for the cylinder head torque sequence illustration. The illustration is located after the Torque Specification Chart. 14. Before installing the cylinder head, set the crankshaft and camshaft to TDC for the No. 1 cylinder. 15. Loosen the turbocharger support bracket to reduce the likelihood of any tension while installing the cylinder head. 16. Install or connect the following: * Head gasket with the part number visible from the intake side * Cylinder head * New cylinder head bolts, tighten by hand 17. Tighten the new cylinder head bolts in sequence in 2 steps: Step 1: 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) Step 2: additional 1⁄2 (180 degree) turn NOTE: It is not necessary to retighten the cylinder head bolts. 18. Install or connect the following: * Turbocharger to the exhaust manifold using new gaskets and the bolts coated with Hot Bolt Paste G 052 112 A3. Tighten the bolts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm). * Turbo support bracket. Tighten the bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). * Valve cover * Timing belt * Accessory drive belts * Exhaust manifold heat shield * Oil supply lines to the cylinder head. Tighten the retaining straps to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). * Crankcase breather * Any other items removed during disassembly * Coolant temperature sensors * Air cleaner housing 19. Fill the engine with coolant and bleed, if necessary. 20. Connect the negative battery cable. 21. Fully close all power windows to stop, operate all window switches for at least 1 second in the close direction to activate the one touch opening/closing function. 22. Check the oil level before starting the engine and top off, as necessary. 23. Set the clock to the correct time. NOTE: DTCs are stored when harness connectors are detached. 24. Clear the fault codes, as necessary. 25. Install or connect the following: * Hood lock carrier assembly * Front bumper 26. Adjust the headlights.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3425946

Quote, originally posted by CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL & INSTALLATION »

CAUTION Cylinder head removal should not be attempted unless the engine is cold. 1.8L Engine 1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section. 2. Remove or disconnect the following: * Front bumper 3. Place the hood lock carrier into the service position. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 5. Remove or disconnect the following: * Negative battery cable * Accessory drive belt * Cooling fan 6. Drain the engine coolant. 7. Remove or disconnect the following: * Intake manifold * Accessory drive belts * Wastegate bypass regulator valve * Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) canister purge regulator valve * Power outage stage * Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor * Air cleaner housing * Engine Temperature Control (ETC) and the temperature II sensor harness connector * All connections from the cylinder head * Crankcase breather line * Oil supply line at the cylinder head * Exhaust manifold heat shield * Turbocharger from the exhaust manifold * Coolant hose to the heat exchanger at the rear of the cylinder head * Upper timing belt cover 8. Turn the crankshaft, in the direction of rotation (clockwise), until the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC. 9. Using Torx® wrench T45, loosen the timing belt tensioner. 10. Push down on the tensioner and remove the belt from the camshaft gear. 11. Remove or disconnect the following: * Torx® bolt and swing the tensioner assembly bracket forward * Valve cover * Cylinder head bolts, in sequence, as shown * Cylinder head 12. Clean the gasket mating surfaces. 13. Clean and dry out the cylinder head bolt holes.To install: NOTE: Always replace the cylinder head bolts, self-locking nuts, bolts, gaskets and O-rings. NOTE: Refer to Section 1 of this manual for the cylinder head torque sequence illustration. The illustration is located after the Torque Specification Chart. 14. Before installing the cylinder head, set the crankshaft and camshaft to TDC for the No. 1 cylinder. 15. Loosen the turbocharger support bracket to reduce the likelihood of any tension while installing the cylinder head. 16. Install or connect the following: * Head gasket with the part number visible from the intake side * Cylinder head * New cylinder head bolts, tighten by hand 17. Tighten the new cylinder head bolts in sequence in 2 steps: Step 1: 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) Step 2: additional 1⁄2 (180 degree) turn NOTE: It is not necessary to retighten the cylinder head bolts. 18. Install or connect the following: * Turbocharger to the exhaust manifold using new gaskets and the bolts coated with Hot Bolt Paste G 052 112 A3. Tighten the bolts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm). * Turbo support bracket. Tighten the bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). * Valve cover * Timing belt * Accessory drive belts * Exhaust manifold heat shield * Oil supply lines to the cylinder head. Tighten the retaining straps to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). * Crankcase breather * Any other items removed during disassembly * Coolant temperature sensors * Air cleaner housing 19. Fill the engine with coolant and bleed, if necessary. 20. Connect the negative battery cable. 21. Fully close all power windows to stop, operate all window switches for at least 1 second in the close direction to activate the one touch opening/closing function. 22. Check the oil level before starting the engine and top off, as necessary. 23. Set the clock to the correct time. NOTE: DTCs are stored when harness connectors are detached. 24. Clear the fault codes, as necessary. 25. Install or connect the following: * Hood lock carrier assembly * Front bumper 26. Adjust the headlights.

Could relate to other model years but do at your own risk!

First off this is not a very difficult job if I had to rate in on a scale of 1-10 I’d give it a 6 only because you are working in a tight spot with not a lot of light.Tools:

10mm Socket
13mm Socket

T40 Socket
T30 Socket
6MM Hex Socket

Swivel Head
Extensions
Flathead Screwdriver
Pliers
Flashlight

and your best friend a Craftsman magnet pen.

First I drained the coolant from the radiator, on the driverside there is a little red plastic screw you can use a philipshead screwdriver to loosen it up. (you don’t have to do this, I need a coolant flush so that is why I did it)

Next I removed the coolant reservoir. pretty easy there is three screws holding it down and one sensor on the bottom. You will need to undo the hoses as well.

Next take off the throttle body and intake hose

After the throttle body is off and out of the way you will find this engine brace. Take it off unless you can contort your arms and hands and work around it

your engine bay should look like this

This is the guy you are looking for. Now it is a little tricky but you can work around the alternator. You may want to disconnect the ground wire on the back to make it a little easier, just wrap the wire in electrical tape so you don’t make sparks…like I did.

The bolts holding the t-stat housing are circle in red and the ground wire is circled in green. If you can work around the ground wire do it. For me it was easier to remove it.

After you get the housing off just pop out the t-stat. BE CAREFUL! make sure you have a bucket or something under your car coolant will come out like a waterfall! I made the mistake of putting the rubber o-ring on first then the t-stat. when I closed everything back up she was leaking like crazy. So I had to pull everything off and put the t-stat in first then the o-ring. You will see that the t-stat should sit inside the engine block and not move. The way I had it the first time made it difficult to put the housing back on, I don’t even know how I got it on the first time.

Part 1

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Part 4

Part 5