1.8L Engine
Fig. 1: Exploded view of the camshaft mounting and related components — 1.8L engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
4. Place the lock carrier into the service position.
5. Remove or disconnect the following:
* Accessory drive belts
* Engine covers
* Timing belt upper cover
6. Turn the crankshaft, in the direction of rotation (clockwise), until the No. 1 cylinder is at Top Dead Center (TDC).
7. Remove or disconnect the following:
* Timing belt tensioner by loosening it using Torx® wrench T45
* Belt from the camshaft gear by pushing the tensioner downward
* Torx® bolt and swing the tensioner assembly bracket forward
* Valve cover
* Cam gear retaining bolt by loosening it using retainer tool 3036
* Camshaft gear
* Camshaft Position (CMP) housing sensor and shutter wheel
* Hydraulic chain tensioner by securing it with bracket tensioner tool 3366

Fig. 2: Do not overtighten the chain tensioner tool 3366, it can be damaged — 1.8L

8. Verify that the camshafts are at TDC for the No. 1 cylinder. Both camshaft markings must align with arrows on the bearing caps.
9. Clean the drive chain and the cam chain gears opposite both arrows on the bearing caps. Matchmark the installed position using paint.

NOTE: The distance between the 2 arrows/paint marks is equivalent to 16 drive chain rollers and the notch on the exhaust camshaft is slightly offset inward toward the drive chain roller.

Fig. 3: To ensure proper installation, matchmark the chain-to-camshaft position — 1.8L

Fig. 4: Camshaft bearing cap identification — 1.8L engine

10. Remove or disconnect the following:
* Bearing caps No. 3 and 5 from the intake and exhaust camshafts
* Double bearing cap
* Both bearing caps from the chain gears on the intake and exhaust camshafts
* Hydraulic chain tensioner retaining bolts
* Intake and exhaust manifold bearing caps No. 2 and 4 by loosening them in an alternating and diagonal sequence
* Camshafts with the hydraulic chain tensioner

To install:

Fig. 5: To ensure a proper seal, be sure to apply sealant to the hatched area — 1.8L

11. Replace the rubber/metal chain tensioner gasket and apply sealant to the hatched area, as shown.
12. Install or connect the following:
* Drive chain on the camshaft

NOTE: If installing the old chain, align the paint marks with the camshaft marks. If installing a new chain, the distance between the notches A and B on the camshafts must equal the distance between 16 drive chain rollers.
* Hydraulic chain tensioner by sliding it between the drive chain
* Camshafts with the chain tensioner lubricated with engine oil into the cylinder head
NOTE: When installing the bearing caps, verify the markings on the caps are readable from the intake side of the cylinder head.
* Intake and exhaust camshafts bearing caps No. 2 and 4. Tighten them in an alternating diagonal sequence to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
* Both the intake and exhaust camshafts bearing caps on the chain sprockets. Tighten the bolts to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
13. Verify the correct positions of the camshafts.
14. Remove the bracket tensioner.
15. Install or connect the following:
* Cylinder head-to-double bearing cap mating surface by lightly coating it with sealant. Tighten the remaining bearing caps to 84 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
* Camshaft gear. Tighten the bolt to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm).
* CMP shutter wheel and housing cover
* Valve cover
16. Align the camshaft gear and the vibration damper with the TDC markings.
17. Install or connect the following:
* Timing belt
* Accessory drive belts and the engine cover
* Lock carrier
* Negative battery cable
18. Fully close all power windows to stop, operate all window switches for at least 1 second in the close direction to activate the one-touch opening/closing function

CAUTION
After installing the lifters or the camshaft(s), the engine must NOT be started for at least 30 minutes. Otherwise the valves could strike the pistons. Rotate the engine by hand, at least 2 revolutions, to ensure that the valves do not strike the pistons.

19. Check the oil level before starting the engine.
20. Set the clock to the correct time.
21. Enter the radio security code.

NOTE: DTCs may be stored when harness connectors are detached.

22. Read the DTCs and clear the fault codes.
23. Adjust the headlights.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3425946

Another Head Removal DIY to use as a supplement to

Quote, originally posted by CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL & INSTALLATION »

CAUTION Cylinder head removal should not be attempted unless the engine is cold. 1.8L Engine 1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of this section. 2. Remove or disconnect the following: * Front bumper 3. Place the hood lock carrier into the service position. 4. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 5. Remove or disconnect the following: * Negative battery cable * Accessory drive belt * Cooling fan 6. Drain the engine coolant. 7. Remove or disconnect the following: * Intake manifold * Accessory drive belts * Wastegate bypass regulator valve * Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) canister purge regulator valve * Power outage stage * Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor * Air cleaner housing * Engine Temperature Control (ETC) and the temperature II sensor harness connector * All connections from the cylinder head * Crankcase breather line * Oil supply line at the cylinder head * Exhaust manifold heat shield * Turbocharger from the exhaust manifold * Coolant hose to the heat exchanger at the rear of the cylinder head * Upper timing belt cover 8. Turn the crankshaft, in the direction of rotation (clockwise), until the No. 1 cylinder is at TDC. 9. Using Torx® wrench T45, loosen the timing belt tensioner. 10. Push down on the tensioner and remove the belt from the camshaft gear. 11. Remove or disconnect the following: * Torx® bolt and swing the tensioner assembly bracket forward * Valve cover * Cylinder head bolts, in sequence, as shown * Cylinder head 12. Clean the gasket mating surfaces. 13. Clean and dry out the cylinder head bolt holes.To install: NOTE: Always replace the cylinder head bolts, self-locking nuts, bolts, gaskets and O-rings. NOTE: Refer to Section 1 of this manual for the cylinder head torque sequence illustration. The illustration is located after the Torque Specification Chart. 14. Before installing the cylinder head, set the crankshaft and camshaft to TDC for the No. 1 cylinder. 15. Loosen the turbocharger support bracket to reduce the likelihood of any tension while installing the cylinder head. 16. Install or connect the following: * Head gasket with the part number visible from the intake side * Cylinder head * New cylinder head bolts, tighten by hand 17. Tighten the new cylinder head bolts in sequence in 2 steps: Step 1: 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm) Step 2: additional 1⁄2 (180 degree) turn NOTE: It is not necessary to retighten the cylinder head bolts. 18. Install or connect the following: * Turbocharger to the exhaust manifold using new gaskets and the bolts coated with Hot Bolt Paste G 052 112 A3. Tighten the bolts to 26 ft. lbs. (35 Nm). * Turbo support bracket. Tighten the bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). * Valve cover * Timing belt * Accessory drive belts * Exhaust manifold heat shield * Oil supply lines to the cylinder head. Tighten the retaining straps to 15 ft. lbs. (20 Nm). * Crankcase breather * Any other items removed during disassembly * Coolant temperature sensors * Air cleaner housing 19. Fill the engine with coolant and bleed, if necessary. 20. Connect the negative battery cable. 21. Fully close all power windows to stop, operate all window switches for at least 1 second in the close direction to activate the one touch opening/closing function. 22. Check the oil level before starting the engine and top off, as necessary. 23. Set the clock to the correct time. NOTE: DTCs are stored when harness connectors are detached. 24. Clear the fault codes, as necessary. 25. Install or connect the following: * Hood lock carrier assembly * Front bumper 26. Adjust the headlights.

http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=3425946

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Since quite a few guys asked me how, plus the fact that I didn’t have a writeup to follow when I had to remove my head in my driveway, I just had my guys on AZ/AW. So as a token of thanks, I just threw this together to avoid future repetitive questions.

Ok here we go:

Do you have to remove the timing belt to take off the head? Yes and No.

I do not remember the exact allen sizes because I bought the Switch-out allen key tool from Autozone, this helps tremendously and is only $10, Everything else is off the top of my head.

Plan to take everything apart , unless you know the secret to put the belt on w/o putting it in service position, i know how to do it , but didnt have the tools, the hard part is putting the belt back on out of service pos. and tensioning it w/o the right tools, but dont sweat it.

There are writeups for the Timing belt, but not for head removal.- Plan on putting the car in service position, then work on the head. Get down to the timing belt (service position) Then just remove the Hydraulic dampener and take the belt off – Dont forget the cam sensor . If you are in a rush,and are replacing the belt you can CAREFULLY remove the belt from the cam gear– Pull side to side then easily use a blunt object to slowly push the belt off the teeth, side by side, carefully and slowly.

Once its off , start disconnecting the exhaust manifold bolts first-The bolt (size 17) nearest the head is a toughguy, use a small ratchet in there and remove it while it still has room to be pulled out, then use an open ended wrench to take it out.

After the EM, start at the Throttle body , remove hose and throttle body (4 screws, size 6 or 8 allen i believe) Remove throttle cable and 2 bolts holding it in. Unhook cruise control nipple. Now is the time to remove the lines under the Intake manifold. There are two. Remove those hoses easily and disconnect throttle body sensor wire. Now remove the 10mm Allen bolt for the IM brace. Then, work your way to the black cooling line that runs from the upper rad hose. Remove those screws holding the metal hose down to the IM. Then there is a connection at the corner of the head that goes down to the filter . Disconnect that hose (using pliers), then start working at the rear head coolant flange. 2 size 10 bolts await you. Try to unscrew these with care, they are sensitive and so is the flange. After that, remove remaining hoses from Coolant flange, 2 I believe , 1 rear , 1 right side. Replace all those gaskets and do not lose clips. Pull and replace Coolant temp sensor while you are at it.

While back there, remove the 2 10mm bolts that connect the rear head flange to the radiator hose. After that, remove the bolt holding down the metal coolant line going across the head and swing out of the way.

Remove Fuel rail and injectors. Youll need a 6mm Allen to get the 2 bolts holding down the rail. After they are out, the injectors pop out with a straight pull. Now remove the 10 10 mm bolts holding down the VC. After that, remove coil pack ground (size 10 as well) then, remove coilpacks and peel them back , resting in them behind the firewall. Remove PCV line that is bolted to VC ( 2 allen bolts) Remove valve cover and carefully set aside, upside-down. Your almost there.

Now: Onto removing the headbolts-

There are two tools that are required for some.

For earlier B5’s (97-98.5, maybe 99.5), you need those two. (Go figure)

First, Go to Napa. Get their headbolt kit (GM) , Its cheap. You are looking for a 12 point.

One of the 5 tools is going to fit our headbolts. From there the tool is short, It’ll only remove the center headbolts and not the bolts in the corners of the Head, as they have a deep well. Well, To solve this problem, I welded a ratchet extension onto the tool itself. ( Or pay someone, cant be more than $5) Make sure they (or you) grind down the weld in order to avoid scraping the walls of the head.

Newer B5 Guys : : You need this Poly-Drive tool::

From here – http://www.zdmak.com/wbstore/main.as…CTMP=1&LowCt=0

(its a 1/2″ drive type)

Earlier B5 guys, You have to have this as well after removing headbolts because when you buy new ones (which you have to), they will be Poly-Drive bolts.

First, Naturally, Remove the Valve cover– Ten 10mm nuts hold it on, as well as the coil packs. They are easy to remove, But remember when pulling the VC up, Pull Evenly from each side, or else it will get stuck and its pretty annoying if you dont.

Removing Headbolts

Removing the headbolts requires a removal pattern in this order:

(Intake cam being the Bottom Row)

1 7 9 5 3

[4 6] 10 8 2 — Parenthese= Plastic Splash cover

They loosen up easy, but make sure you keep unscrewing, as the threads are long.

The head is ready to come off. Put the valve cover back on (just one screw will do) If you are doing it alone like I did, start to break it free from the block easily and rotate and move it around. After it gives weigh, Grab the exhaust manifold and the base of the runners and lift evenly and have something right next to you ready to rest it on, Its not light. Easily place it upside down, resting on the VC on a soft surface, I used a “boogie board” which was made out of strong foam.

And her head’s off:

The red dots signify my bent valves (if you can’t already tell)

While you have the head off, now is a great time to replace a few more things and one mandatory thing:

-I cleaned my squish area just a bit and as well as the surrounding area. Some may argue that it needs to be dirty to form a nice seal, But after cleaning mine, I had zero issues.

-Replace stock oil feed line to the turbo

-Replace PVC pipe from the block , Part number 058 103 213 (wasnt expensive)
http://www.scottweese.com/images/pcv/old_new.jpg

This is a culprit to boost loss and very hard to replace w/ the IM on.

- Onto the mandatory part, you guessed it, The Head gasket ($60)

When you are ready to install the head (dont remove gasket from pkging until you are ready), installation is reverse of removal w/ a few exceptions:

-Remember to PROPERLY install headgasket rightside up with Audi VW emblem facing UP in the lower right hand corner of the head, quite a few people had made this mistake and had to repeat the process all over again.

-Replace coolant

-Remember to replace all coolant line and flange washers

And most importantly,

Install Headbolts in this specific order

Intake cam being the bottom row-

10 4 2 6 8

[7 5] 1 3 9

Start w/ your regular 1/2″ ratchet then torque to 44 lb Ft (60 NM) After that, Take your Regular half inch ratchet and Give an additional HALF TURN. I used two quarter turns for extra control.

- Try to get some help installing the Head if you can- youll need it when trying to line it up with the points. If you cant, take your time and set easily. After it is set, test to see if the head easily moves out of place, if it does, then its not in the right place.

Before you put the VC on, pour some oil over the cams and valves for startup and start connecting the exhaust mani and the rest after you set the Timing belt to TDC and your all done and saved yourself massive amounts of money.

And thats it! Whole process maybe took an hour and a half , wasnt hard right?

NOTE: When setting engine to TDC, set crank a few teeth before TDC if the head isnt already at TDC. This will avoid any compression and allow you to adjust the cam sprocket accordingly with the safety of avoiding the bending of valves.

Now enjoy putting everything else back together!

Could relate to other model years but do at your own risk!

First off this is not a very difficult job if I had to rate in on a scale of 1-10 I’d give it a 6 only because you are working in a tight spot with not a lot of light.Tools:

10mm Socket
13mm Socket

T40 Socket
T30 Socket
6MM Hex Socket

Swivel Head
Extensions
Flathead Screwdriver
Pliers
Flashlight

and your best friend a Craftsman magnet pen.

First I drained the coolant from the radiator, on the driverside there is a little red plastic screw you can use a philipshead screwdriver to loosen it up. (you don’t have to do this, I need a coolant flush so that is why I did it)

Next I removed the coolant reservoir. pretty easy there is three screws holding it down and one sensor on the bottom. You will need to undo the hoses as well.

Next take off the throttle body and intake hose

After the throttle body is off and out of the way you will find this engine brace. Take it off unless you can contort your arms and hands and work around it

your engine bay should look like this

This is the guy you are looking for. Now it is a little tricky but you can work around the alternator. You may want to disconnect the ground wire on the back to make it a little easier, just wrap the wire in electrical tape so you don’t make sparks…like I did.

The bolts holding the t-stat housing are circle in red and the ground wire is circled in green. If you can work around the ground wire do it. For me it was easier to remove it.

After you get the housing off just pop out the t-stat. BE CAREFUL! make sure you have a bucket or something under your car coolant will come out like a waterfall! I made the mistake of putting the rubber o-ring on first then the t-stat. when I closed everything back up she was leaking like crazy. So I had to pull everything off and put the t-stat in first then the o-ring. You will see that the t-stat should sit inside the engine block and not move. The way I had it the first time made it difficult to put the housing back on, I don’t even know how I got it on the first time.

This is a Do-It-Yourself from Audiworld and is not my work. Do at your own risk as I take no responsibility.  DIY Oil Cooler Install

Tech Article Title	Author	Date
OIL COOLER INSTALL	Point By	2006

For those of you that have front mounted intercoolers and that take your car to the track, you’ve probably already experienced overheating on hot days. Regardless, an oil cooler provides additional protection to modified turbocharged Audi engines. This install was performed on a 1997 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro with an SPP front mount intercooler. Installation on any other vehicle may vary from the following guide.

No liability is assumed by the author for the use or interpretation of information contained within this article – all decisions based on the information provided herein are the responsibility of the individual user. The user understands that any modifications to the car can void warranty.

PARTS LIST
1 ea. 48 Plate Mesa oil cooler, part #3080-11………………………………………………$59.99
1 ea. Mocal sandwich plate, 3/4 x 16 with 180 degree thermostat, part #10.117.304K..99.95
1 ea. Shorter threaded 3/4 x 16 nipple for oil filter mount, part #1234-3/4 x 16……….3.49
3 ft. XRP push-on hoses, size 10, part #340010…………………………………………………6.00
2 ea. Straight push-on hose ends, size 10, part #230010…………………………………….7.50
2 ea. 45 Degree push-on hose ends, size 10, part #234510……………………………….24.00
4 ea. Male size 10 flare to 1/2″ NPT pipe adapter, part #98160…………………………..5.35
4 ea. Snap type hose clamps, part #81840……………………………………………………1.46
2 ft. Aluminum L material, part #ALUM 1″ X 18″ Crown Bolt 1/16″ thick
5 ea. Bolts, Nyloc lock nuts and washers, 6mm x 12mm
1 ea. Bolt, 6mm x 20 mm bolt
1 roll Teflon Tape
2 ea. Sheet metal screws, 7mm x 20 mm (approx.)
Total (approx.)…………………………………………………………………………………. 223.67

SOURCES:
Porterfield : (porterfield-brakes.com) Hoses, hose ends, hose clamps.
Pegasus Racing: (pegasusautoracing.com) Shorter threaded nipple for oil filter installation.
VWParts: (vwparts.net) Mesa oil cooler.
PUREMotorsports: (pure-motorsports.com) Mocal sandwich plate.
Home Depot (homedepot.com) Sheet metal screws, Teflon tape, metric nuts and bolts, aluminum L bracket material.

TOOLS/SUPPLIES LIST:
Floor jack and jack stands
Metric sockets: 10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 19mm (12 point), 26mm (or 1″)
Allen sockets: 5mm, 6mm, 8mm
Breaker bar
Torx sockets: T45, T30
Set of metric wrenches
Fresh G12 Coolant (2-3 bottles if you change the coolant)
New Audi filter
5 Quarts of oil
2 Buckets to catch coolant and windshield washer fluid if you want to reuse those
Drill
9/32 drill bit
Screwdrivers, phillips and standard
Hammer
Center punch
Vice grips or channel locks
Hack saw
Dremel with cutting wheel

Step 1 Disassembly
Remove front clip. Although removing the bumper, bumper supports, A/C condenser and radiator may be optional; removing it provides additional room to work.
For a detailed step-by-step procedure on how to review the front clip, follow the first six steps from Andy TN’s timing belt replacement on Audiworld’s tech articles.

The only difference is that you’ll also be removing your FMIC and a few other parts to improve access.
Once you’ve completed step six of Andy’s timing belt tech article and everything is out of the way, proceed with the next steps:
- Drain the oil and remove the oil filter.
- Remove the coolant overflow tank and electrical connector.
- Remove driver’s side wheel/tire.
- Remove the driver’s side wheel liner.

Step 2 Remove existing oil cooler
Remove existing oil cooler and coolant lines.

Remove the jam nut (8) from the threaded tube (5) that goes through the middle of the oil cooler (7). Then unscrew the threaded tube (5) for oil cooler. Use a vice grips or similar tool to unscrew the threaded tube. You can cut and reuse the original tube if you don’t damage it. If you plan to cut it and reuse it, use care to not damage the threads when removing. Wrap threads with a towel or similar item to protect.

Remove the feed line and return hoses from the oil cooler. Using pliers, squeeze the clamps and slide them up and off the oil cooler. Then pull off both hoses. You will re-use the hose 058 121 058 A that goes from the throttle valve housing to the oil cooler. To be safe, you can purchase a new hose, although mine looked to be in good condition so I just reused it.
The oil cooler should basically fall off at this point.

Step 3 Prepare oil cooler for installation
Trim oil cooler bracket. The oil cooler on the right hand side must be trimmed to fit; otherwise it will contact the washer fluid reservoir. Trim two inches from the right hand support bracket as shown. You’ll also need to drill a 6mm hole on the right hand side, measured 4 1/2″ from the bottom.

Wrap the two male flare to pipe adapter fittings with Teflon tape and install them into the oil cooler.

Step 4 Fabricate brackets for oil cooler
Three aluminum brackets must be fabricated to support the oil cooler.
* The first bracket will attach to the left side of the oil cooler to the frame of the car.

bracket 1 Take the angle aluminum and cut it to 8-1/4″ in length, slightly shorter than the inlet and outlet on the Mesa cooler. Align the bracket with the oil cooler and mark the holes. They should be 1-1/2″ and 6-7/8″ from the top of the angled aluminum. Drill two 9/32″ holes for mounting the Mesa cooler to the bracket. Mark the holes on the other side of the angle aluminum that will screw into the frame. Mark the first hole 2″ from the top and the other 3″ from the top. Now, bolt the angle aluminum to the cooler and test fit it to the car frame just to be sure the holes you are about to drill are centered vertically to the frame. The bracket and cooler should be positioned so that the top of the cooler is just below the top edge of the old SMIC mount. If everything looks good, remove the bracket and drill the two holes for the sheet metal screws that will go into the frame.

bracket 2 The second bracket will support the cooler from the top. The overall length is 5-1/2″. You’ll need to make two cuts to leave a 1-1/2″ tab at top and a 45-degree angle. Drill a 9/32″ hole in the center of the tab for the bolt.
bracket 3 The third bracket will support the cooler from the back. Cut the aluminum stock 4-7/8″, trim 3/4″ from each end so that the bracket can have two angled tabs as shown. Drill 1/4″ hole in the center of each tab for the bolts.

Step 5 Install the oil cooler and supports
Test fit cooler again with all three brackets loosely attached.

The left-hand bracket should be placed so that the top of the cooler is just below the top edge of the old SMIC mount. Mark the holes from the left side bracket onto the frame. Note where the top and back brackets will be attached. The top bracket will bolt into the old SMIC bracket and the back bracket will bolt into the existing fender mount using a longer bolt in place of the existing bolt.
Install the side mount bracket. Make sure the holes are centered, then use a drill punch to mark the holes and drill holes in frame.
Temporarily mount oil cooler. Attach the left-hand bracket to the frame with two sheet metal screws and bolt the oil cooler to the frame. Recheck the fitment of the cooler and the two other brackets. Mark the hole in the SMIC for the top bracket, use center punch and drill hole.

Loosely bolt in place. Using the longer bolt, attach back bracket. Make sure that the wires that run under the top inlet are clipped in place and won’t be damaged by any heat off of the oil cooler. Wrap with thermal wire protection if needed.

Check that all brackets fit properly, then tighten all the bolts and nuts down.

Step 6 Install Mocal Cooler
Install Mocal cooler.

Install the two short blue fittings into the sandwich adapter using pipe thread tape. At this time also wrap the other end with pipe thread tape so it is ready to accept the oil lines from the cooler. Install brass looking threaded tube into the engine block, then the Mocal cooler adapter and the jam nut. (The other red knob unit is a snub mount that I installed at the same time) Tighten jam nut to 18 ft-lbs. Oil the filter gasket on the new oil filter and spin it on tight, plus a half turn. Install the oil drain plug so we are ready to begin adding oil.

Step 7 Assemble oil lines
Double check length. Take the lines and check that they are the correct lengths. They should have some slack and be routed so they won’t rub on other existing lines. Once you are satisfied that the line length listed above is correct, cut the lines and install the hose ends.

Assemble bottom line. Using 17 1/2″ line, push the oil line onto one of the straight ends with washer. Then slide both clamps onto the hose and install the 45-degree end with washer. Recheck fit.
Assemble top line. Using 12 1/2″ line, assembly will be same as the bottom line. Recheck fit. Then clamp all the fittings to the lines. Use a vice grips or channel locks to secure the clamps. I wasn’t sure exactly where to clamp the lines in relation to the ridges on the hose ends. I tried both positions, one right on the highest point of the ridge and the others in the lowest point. So far, no difference and no leaks.

Step 8 Install Line Sets
Install oil lines. The male fittings should already be wrapped with pipe thread tape. Install the bottom line set. The 45-degree fitting goes on the oil cooler and the straight fitting goes to the sandwich plate.

I didn’t torque the fittings, but they are very tight. Install the top line to the cooler only. Holding the line up, prefill the lines and cooler with oil. Once the lines and cooler are full of oil, install the other end of the line to the sandwich adapter.

Step 9 Reinstallation of all other components
Install coolant lines. Since the coolant lines will bypass the oil cooler they need to be rerouted. Using the long line, route it from the upper coolant hose to the lower heater core coolant hose. Clamp both ends of the hose. Reuse existing clamps or purchase new screw clamps. (I reused OEM clamps)
Fill with system with coolant. Be sure to purge the air from the system.

Step 10 Final Preparation
Fill engine with oil. New capacity is roughly 5 quarts of oil. Check dipstick as you fill.
Start the car and check for leaks. Since the oil cooler lines won’t be carrying any oil until the thermostat reached 180 degrees (the preset temp for the Mocal thermostat) be sure to recheck the system for leaks the first time the engine oil reaches 180 degrees.
There you go, nice clean install. Looks nearly stock.

So when Google Earth first came out it was pretty awesome. Being able to see satellite pictures of where you live or places around the world was one of the greatest things Google has done! Now they have taken it even further with Google Streets! You can actually see a 3D image of the street of whatever address you type in (if they have an image for it) instead of just the plain overhead view. To take a look at this feature go to www.maps.google.com type in whatever address you want and click search. In the top right corner it will say “Map, Terrain, Satellite” Click on satellite and than double click on the red balloon that shows the address you searched  in order to zoom in. Keep zooming in until you reach the Street View and then navigate the street with your mouse. You can go further down the street, turn around so you are looking at the sides of the street, etc.. On the bottom right there is a person you can use to navigate as well. Just right click the person and drag (walk) him down the street you want to go down. I thought this was pretty cool so go check it out and let me know what you think!!

Google Maps

Dollar falls on oil plan report

Check live euro-dollar rate Check live pound-dollar rate The dollar has fallen following a report that Gulf states are in secret talks to replace the greenback as the main currency for the trading of oil. Nations including Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates were speaking to Russia, China, Japan and France, said the UK’s Independent newspaper. However, Saudi Arabia subsequently said the report was “absolutely inaccurate”. It caused the euro to rise 0.4% against the dollar to $1.47040. The pound also rose, by 0.4%, before falling back. The pound reached $1.5991 before dropping back to $1.58920.   The fall in the value of the dollar had a knock-on impact on the price of gold, which rose to a record high of $1,036.60 an ounce. Gold rose because a weaker dollar – in which it is valued – increases its attractiveness to investors. The Independent’s report said the Gulf states wished to replace the dollar over a nine-year period with a basket of currencies including the yen, China’s yuan, the euro, and the new unified currency planned for nations in the Gulf Co-operation Council, which include Saudi Arabia, Kuwait, the United Arab Emirates and Qatar. Kuwait also denied the article’s claim. “We have never discussed or proposed this,” said Kuwaiti Oil Minister Sheikh Ahmad Abdullah al-Sabah. China’s central bank suggested in March that the dollar should be replaced by a new global reserve currency run by the International Monetary Fund.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/business/8292011.stm

Increasingly facial recognition is picking out people in a crowd

A surveillance state, with cameras on every street is commonplace but now Big Business is also turning to Big Brother.

Face recognition, behaviour analysing surveillance cameras, biometric profiling and the monitoring and storing of our shopping patterns has made snooping into our habits, movements and private lives ever easier.

Dismayed at its shrinking power to market to us via traditional media or even the internet, the private sector is now proposing to reach potential customers in ways that critics say should have us all concerned.

“There is an enormous pent-up demand for personalised location advertising, whether it is on your cellphone or PDA, on your radio in your car, or on the billboards you walk by on the streets and inside stores,” says Bruce Schneier, chief security technology officer of BT.

“This is yet another technological intrusion into privacy. And like all such intrusions, it will be taken as far as the owner of that intrusion finds it profitable.”

Emotional reactions

Are adverts watching you?

New surveillance technology could even evaporate the advertiser’s favourite grouse that “half of advertising is wasted, but we don’t know which half”.

Advertisers are turning to “intelligent” digital billboards that use cameras to watch you watching the ads.

In Germany, developers have placed video cameras into street advertisements attempting to discern people’s emotional reactions to the ads, according to the Washington-based privacy advocate outfit the Electronic Privacy Information Center (EPIC).

It warns that this type of surveillance encroaches on civil liberties. Such face, voice and behaviour technology could be a means of tracking individuals on a mass level across their entire lives, it says.

Pushed by the demands of advertisers and security-minded governments, these technologies are becoming so increasingly smart and intrusive that they now resemble something out of science fiction, it warns.

Science fact

Some of the technology available now seems to have overtaken fiction.

When an interactive ad shouts out to Tom Cruise’s character in the 2002 film Minority Report: “John Anderton, you could use a Guinness!” It identified him as he walked through a mall by scanning the unique pattern of his iris.

This is now pretty standard. Face recognition technology is proving to be a handier, more sophisticated tool to pick us out on the street, a crowded room or at passport control.

Such systems are able to automatically detect and identify human faces using recognition algorithms.

The first step for a facial recognition system is to recognise a human face and extract it from the rest of the scene. Next, the system measures the distance between the features — a distinctive aspect of our faces that does not change with disguises or even surgery.

Matches can then be found in databases in under a second, although 100% accuracy is not yet guaranteed.

Currently the private sector is finding such systems useful for what it calls “targeted marketing,” or “dynamic advertising.”

Japan’s NEC, for instance, sells face-recognition technology to allow advertisers to tailor what ad is showing on a digitised screen depending on the viewer’s sex and age.

Tracking systems, such as these, can determine the viewer’s gender 85-90% of the time, approximate age and ethnicity, and change the ads accordingly.

NEC denies the system raises privacy concerns as it does not store any images, only the analysed results (age and sex) based on those images.

But as Schneier points out systems like these are likely liable to “function creep” where a technology is brought in for one purpose, to profile your sex while viewing an ad for example, and then begins to push the boundaries.

“Once the cameras are installed and operational, once they’re networked to central computers, then it’s a simple matter of upgrading the software,” he says.

“And if they can do more — if they can provide more “value” to the advertisers — then of course they will. To think otherwise is simply naive.”

And when advertisers start to follow us, our privacy, our right to be left alone will be severely compromised, he thinks.

More control

EU commissioner Viviane Reding wants to see tighter controls

Democratic governments, charged with protecting us from such violations, are beginning to wake up to these practices.

The US is about to propose a bill to ensure that consumers know what information is being collected about them. The EU promises to rigorously police what it claims are already stringent controls on our personal data.

“Europeans must have the right to control how their personal information is used,” Viviane Reding, the EU’s commissioner for information society and media told BBC news. “We cannot give up this basic principle, and have all our exchanges monitored, surveyed and stored, in exchange for a promise of ‘more relevant’ advertising.”

Despite such assurances, given the pervasiveness of such technologies firstly on the internet and now spreading to the physical world, what we do about them in the next few years will be crucial. It might control our privacy for generations to come say human rights advocates.

“Companies are increasingly impatient to get to us and once these practices are commonplace it will hard to reverse them,” says Marc Rotenberg director of EPIC. “Particularly as, ironically, we lose privacy these companies are gaining secrecy.”

It would seem sensible to debate now how far business and the state should be allowed to tag us while we still have a privacy to protect.

Xbox’s creative director Kudo Tsunoda demonstrates the prototype motion control system that monitors a player’s movement.

The player does not hold a controller, but uses their entire body to manipulate the game.

One of the most common technologies for watching video on a computer will soon be available for most smartphones.

Flash software is used to deliver around 75% of online video and is the key technology that underpins websites such as YouTube and Google Video.

Until now, many smartphones and netbooks have used a “light” version of the program, because of the limited processing power of the devices.

The new software is intended to work as well on a smartphone as a desktop PC.

Adobe, the maker of Flash, said it should be available on most higher-end handsets by 2010, although Apple’s iPhone would continue not to use the software.

“The sort of rich apps we now see being delivered on PCs will now be coming to the phone,” Ben Wood, director of mobile research at analyst firm CCS Insight, told BBC News.

“You’ll be able to access a lot of the cool stuff that web designers are coming up with.”

Web boom

Flash is one of the most common pieces of software installed on computers.

It is found on about 98% of PCs and almost 75% of all online video is delivered using the software, according to Adobe.

Apple’s iPhone does not yet support Flash software

It powers services such as the BBC iPlayer and around 70% of web-based video games.

However, until now, the full version of the software has not been available on smartphones.

Instead, users have had to use Flash Lite, a stripped down version of the media software that does not make the same demands of the device’s memory or processor.

Flash Lite is currently installed in around 40% of all new mobile phones and will continue to be offered on lower-end handsets, Adobe said.

Flash 10.1, as the new software is known, had been developed because the mobile web was “booming”, said Mr Wood.

In addition, he said, developers and users demanded a consistent web experience from desktop PC to smartphone.

“We’re addressing that need,” Anup Muraka of Adobe told BBC News.

“Years ago, browsing on smart phones was almost non-existent – nobody was worried about desktop experiences on phones,” he added.

“But a tremendous level of capability has been added to these devices in recent years and as a result that has changed.”

A recent report by CCS Insight predicted that by the end of 2009 44% of mobile users will access data via their handsets, whilst smart phones are expected to account for around 17% of the more than one billion handsets shipped during 2009, according to forecasts.

“[Mobile phones] have gone from being a voice device to a very visual device that you hold in front of you,” said Mr Wood.

Apple anomaly

The new software supports high-definition video and can also be used with touchscreen devices.

It is the first major product of an initiative known as the Open Screen Project, which aims to create a flexible media platform for films and games that can run on any device – from set top boxes to mobile phones.

The intention of the project is to develop flexible software that will mean developers will only have to write code once, rather than tweaking it for different platforms.

The software can also be used on other devices

The Open Screen Project is backed by nearly 50 companies including Google and Nokia.

The new software will be available for Windows Mobile, Palm webOS and desktop operating systems including Windows, Macintosh and Linux later this year.

Trial software for Google Android and the popular Symbian operating systems are expected to be available in early 2010.

However, it will not be available for the Apple iPhone, according to Mr Muraka.

“We’re going to need Apple’s cooperation,” he told BBC News. “At the moment Safari (Apple’s web browser) doesn’t support any kind of plug-in [on the iPhone].”

“But we’d love to see it on there.”

Mr Wood said he thought that time would come soon.

“As momentum builds, I think Apple will have little choice but to embrace it [Flash],” he said. “Watch this space.”

Apple did not respond to requests for comment.