Ray's World

This is pretty crazy..

The 4 minute park job is hilarious!!

When the dealer services your car, they are supposed to reset the oil or service interval warning light that comes on in place of your trip odometer when you start your car. It can be temporarily reset, by pushing the odometer reset. But when the ignition is turned off, the service warning will reappear when you restart your car. To reset it permanently, follow these instructions:

1. Insert your key into the ignition.
2. Push in the odometer reset button, hold it in, and turn the key to the first click.
3. The display should read either “oil” or “service” if it does not, repeat steps #1 and #2.
4. To reset, pull out your instrument light dimmer button at the bottom of the tachometer.
5. Turn the ignition to the off position. When the ignition is turned back on, the display should be back to the trip odometer.

Note: This procedure has been confirmed on ‘98 and ‘99 model year A4’s.

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec.html

When the dealer services your car, they are supposed to reset the oil or service interval warning light that comes on in place of your trip odometer when you start your car. It can be temporarily reset, by pushing the odometer reset. But when the ignition is turned off, the service warning will reappear when you restart your car. To reset it permanently, follow these instructions:

1. Insert your key into the ignition.
2. Push in the odometer reset button, hold it in, and turn the key to the first click.
3. The display should read either “oil” or “service” if it does not, repeat steps #1 and #2.
4. To reset, push the clock adjustment knob the bottom of the tachometer.
5. Turn the ignition to the off position. When the ignition is turned back on, the display should be back to the trip odometer.

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec.html

Usual disclaimer applies here, I am not responsible for any of your work. This procedure is done at your own risk, and my write-up is merely a guide to help you do it (as model years and options vary).

Big thanks to SScott for filling in all the bolt sizes. Also, I must metion my partner in crime here, JustDave did most of the replacement of the timing belt and tensioner.

And one more thing, this is not the only way to change the belt. It can be changed without removing the A/C condensor and radiator, however I wanted to have plenty of room to work….so I took it all off.

TOOLS/SUPPLIES LIST:
Metric sockets: 10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 19mm (12 point).
Allen sockets: 5mm, 6mm, 8mm
Breaker bar
Torx sockets: T45, T30
Set of metric wrenches
Timing Belt “kit” from PureMotorsports (www.pureMS.com ) ~$180
Fresh G12 Coolant (2-3 bottles if you change the coolant)
2 Buckets to catch coolant and windshield washer fluid if you want to reuse those

That’s definitely not everything, but I don’t think there’s anything else out of the ordinary you’ll need. Screwdrivers, socket wrench, extensions, etc…just normal stuff. A lift would help if you have access to one, but it’s not necessary….jackstands will suffice.

FRONT BUMPER REMOVAL:
1. Remove the plastic underpan; 6 screws underneath and 2 plastic screws in each wheel well.

2. Remove two small grills and fog lights (if applicable) on front bumper; the grills come out just by pulling.

3. Disconnect the hose to the headlight washers by reaching through the hole where you removed the driver’s side grill; it disconnects at the lightened area of the picture below. If you can’t reach it, see step 6. Washer Fluid will SPLASH out, so catch it in a bucket in case you want to reuse that

4. Remove the two long 6mm hex bolts (see above picture).

5. Now grab the side of the bumper, almost to the wheel well and pull BACK (towards the rear of the car) and DOWN then UP. It takes a little finesse, but it’s really not that hard. Have someone else hold the bumper while you do this so it doesn’t come crashing down and scratch the paint. See the picture below, notice how the two clips at the top and one at the bottom grab the bumper like a claw. So if you pull it down, and then up (or vise versa), then you should be able to work it loose.

6. If you haven’t disconnected the hose for the headlight washers, you’ll be able to do it much easier now; have someone to hold the bumper while you do it.

A/C CONDENSOR AND RADIATOR REMOVAL:

1. Drain the coolant. Loosen the cap on the filler tank in the engine compartment. See the red screw at the bottom on the driver’s side of the radiator; open it just a bit and you’ll see where the coolant will come out. Either connect a hose (as depicted by the green line in the picture below) or put a bucket underneath to catch the coolant. You can also remove the screw to drain the coolant out rather fast

2. Disconnect the upper and lower radiator hoses, as well as the sensor just above the lower radiator hose. First, pry up the clip around the radiator fitting with a flathead screwdriver:

Do this for the top and bottom hoses. Now, just pull firmly (read: HARD) to get the hoses off. See the sensor above the lower radiator hose in the picture below

3. Remove the two “air guides” attached on each side of the A/C condensor. They’re blocked in the picture, but the Phillips head screws would be where the green dots are in the picture.

4. Now pull the P/S cooler that runs in front of the A/C condensor out of the way. The two 10 mm bolts are shown by the red dots in the picture above. Check the clamps connecting the rubber hoses to the P/S cooler while you have it loose, mine were leaking upon reinstallation of the cooler

5. Remove the two brackets that hold the A/C condensor in place, they’re held by four 10 mm bolts. See the picture, where the bracket is actually already removed

6. Disconnect the sensor that connects on the passenger side of the A/C condensor (see above pic).

7. Now; pull up and then out on the condensor; “peel” the A/C condensor to the passenger side.

8. To remove the radiator, pry the small tab in the circular pin up, as shown here:

to the position shown here:

9. Now pull the top of the radiator out towards you (as if the bottom edge were a hinge), then up. The radiator is now free. Its a good idea to flush the radiator out with a garden hose at this time and let it dry while finishing up with the rest of the tbelt change

REMOVING LOCK CARRIER:
1. First unplug the horn(s) on the passenger side, as shown by the lightened ovals (on a 2000 there is one horn per side )

2. Remove the bulbs from the turn signals (see dangling bulb in above picture) and
disconnect the plugs to the headlights.

3. Remove the bumper post bolts with a Torx T45 bit. The passenger side will have 4 bolts while the drivers side will only have 3 which are holding the bumper posts

4. Remove the two Torx T30 bolts at the front edge of the hood on each side.

.

5. Remove one Torx T30 bolt underneath each headlight; see green arrow.

6. Slowly slide the lock carrier out towards the front of the car; be careful it is heavy and  there are still wires running to the lock carrier (around the fan shroud), as you will see. Remove the hood release. Do your best to unclip the wires routed around the fan housings, so that you can lay the lock carrier off to the driver’s side.

TIMING BELT:

First, let’s make sure we’re on the same page as far as the parts in the “kit.” As seen in the picture below, you should have (1) timing belt, (1) tensioner, (1) tensioner pulley, (1) bolt, (1) washer, and (1) metal collar/sleeve. By the way, DO NOT PULL THE PIN ON THE TENSIONER, until the instructions say to do so.

1. Remove the upper timing belt cover by releasing the two “clips” and moving the hose that runs in front.

2. Remove the viscous fan; have someone hold the plastic blades firmly, while you remove the 5mm hex bolts, circled in yellow.

3. Remove the A/C compressor belt by loosening the tensioner with two 6mm hex bolts. You will later upon re installation use a wrench attached to the red circle to tension the new belt back up

4. Remove the main serpentine belt by rotating the spring-loaded tensioner; use a crescent wrench and rotate clockwise, hold it while you remove the belt. If needed, remove this tensioner–three 13 mm bolts. You like my yellow crescent wrench?

5. Remove the dampener pulley; have someone hold the pulley with a 19mm 12pt. socket on a breaker bar, while you remove the four 6mm hex bolts (allen keys won’t cut it here, you’ll need a socketed hex).

6. Remove the lower timing belt cover; there are two hex bolts the top: one is a 6 mm and the bottom one is a 5 mm (green arrows), a 10 mm bolt (red arrow), and a 10 mm nut (black arrow).

7. This step is the very critical. Carefully align the 2 timing marks (one on the cam sprocket, the other on the edge of the valve cove) by turning the engine by hand, clockwise, using the 19mm bolt on the crank (where you removed the dampner pulley from earlier). While you have the belt off, you must make sure that these marks remain perfectly aligned. DO NOT use the top cam to turn the engine, always turn at the crank when the tbelt is installed!

Also make your own mark the lower toothed sprocket on the crank, just for your
own comfort of knowing that the sprocket remained in the same position throughout the
install. We scratched an arrow on the sprocket; as you can see in the picture that our arrow aligns with the tip of that protrusion in the metal above it. So after you have marked the top cam and the bottom crank continue to the next step you will also notice that the top cam is very hard to turn by hand so it wont most likely not move but marks are critical!

8. Remove the old tensioner and pulley. First remove 13mm the bolt holding the “guide pulley” (that’s what we’ll call it) on to the tensioner (green arrow); remove this pulley–save it. Now remove the two 10mm bolts holding the tensioner to the block (red arrows). Remove the 10mm nut holding the pulley on (as circled in yellow, partially hidden from view). The pulley/tensioner complex should now be free.

9. Remove the old pulley “stud” from the block; you won’t need it with the new tensioner/pulley. It’s 17mm.

WATER PUMP and THERMOSTAT change (5 steps total)

10. The engine should look like this now, the tensioner and timing belt had been removed. The water pump sits in the red area circled in the picture. Its not that hard to change so do it while you are in there, if you dont want to do this step skip to step # 16 and continue with the Timing belt change instructions

11. Use a screw drive and go through the whole in the P/S pulley there is a perfect crack that the screwdriver fits into so you can remove the 3 hex bolts that are attached to the waterpump. You might need to slightly hold against the belt so it doesnt slip on the pulley itself. The pulley attached to the waterpump is shaped like 2 plates against each other )( and will come off after the hex bolts are removed.

12. Now you need to use your screwdriver again and pry it in the whole of the other pulley for the oilpump and remove the red bolt circled in red. You dont have to worry if this pulley spins, it runs the pump and it very easy to turn. After you have removed that one you will have full access to the waterpump. The green dots indicate 10mm bolts that are holding the pump inside the housing, you will remove those after the next step.

13. The engine will still have coolant in it, so get your bucket from earlier ready again and remove the red waterpump drain plug. The coolant will drain out, now remove the 2 green 10mm bolts that are holding that black hose in the picture that is allready bended away in mine. This hose houses the thermostat and there will still be some coolant left splashing out so be prepared. Remove the old thermostat and remember that the spring part goes inside the pump housing then you reinstall it, the gasket comes in between the thermostat and the hose not the housing!

14. Bolt the hose back to the housing and remove the 10 bolts that are holding the waterpump to the housing, the pump should drop right out, now remove the old metal gasket and clean around the gasket area. Install the new gasket and pump in the same order as you removed it and reinstall the drain plug as well. Make sure that the gasket has a good seat and is not kinked anywere.

15. Reinstall the big pulley that you had taken off earlier in order to remove the bolts that were holding the pump in and where unreachable before. Tighten that one back up and move down to the newly installed waterpump. I hope you ordered new belts as well, use the new P/S belt and slide it over the P/S pulley and attach your )( plate pulleys with the belt. The new belt should be tight on those when you are tightening the pulley back onto the waterpump. You should now have a brand new thermostat and brand new pump installed with a brand new belt that powers both, arent those new belts nice looking compared to the old ones? You are now ready to continue with the timing belt install

16. Time to assemble and install the tensioner and pulley. First, attach the “guide pulley” to the new tensioner–hand tighten for now. Now install the new tensioner to the block. See below for assembly of the pulley and the misc. hardware. I forgot to snap a pic during the installation process, thus you get this VERY crude attempt at a 3D rendering.

Using a 14mm socket in your hand, slowly tighten the center bolt attaching the pulley to the block (careful not to cross-thread, if you feel resistance back it out and try again). The pulley setup should look like it does below. Now remove the brass-colored piece that hangs off the pulley; one bolt (blue arrow) attaches it to the pulley. The pulley should now be free to rotate, more on that later. You will need to remove this one so you can slide the new belt on and will reinstall it later on

17. Install the timing belt. Carefully slide the belt over the toothed sprockets, making sure that you don’t move the sprockets. I found it easier to wrap the large sprocket up top first, then the smaller ones at the bottom, then around the tensioner pulley. Be sure there is no slack in the area outlined in yellow

18. Almost done. Now it’s time to put that brass-colored piece back onto the pulley. See that hex hole in the pulley? Put an 8 mm allen key in that hole, and pull clockwise. This will allow you to align the hole on the brass piece with the hole on the pulley so you can put the bolt through and tighten it up. Go back and double check all the bolts for the tensioner and pulley, be sure they’re all tight (no torque specs at the moment).

19. Make sure your setup looks like below. If so, PULL THE PIN! (BTW, that’s Just Dave’s finger…..it’s the best pic I could get of him; he’s very elusive when the camera comes out

20. With the belt and tensioner now properly installed, hand-crank the engine around one full rotation to make sure your MARKS  on the top cam sprocket line up at the same time your mark on the bottom crank sprocket. Turn the bottom crank sprocket one full time and get back to your original mark you made earlier, if the bottom and top mark match up = everything is fine

21. That’s it…reverse the process and re-install all of the above. You do remember how it all went together, right? It is easier if you but the bolts you had taken off or loosened up back into the whole where they came from to make it easier during reassembly

There, you’ve just saved yourself roughly $900 in labor @ the stealership. All I ask is that you let me know you’ve completed it successfully (hey, if you want to send donations that’s fine as well

If you have any problems, questions, etc, you’re welcome to email me: andytn.a4@gmail.com. Good luck.

Andy wrote the original timing belt writeup

Stephan (BSK) added the the water pump and thermostat replacement Nov 2005, After using this article to change his own timing belt.

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng.html

Porsche to investigate forced labor under Hitler

Porsche was founded two years after Hitler took over Germany

After already admitting to using minimal forced labor during the Nazi regime, new investigations of Porsche’s role under Hitler have produced accusations of widespread slave labor.

Porsche says it is taking the allegations seriously after a report published by a German economics journalist suggested that hundreds of people were forced to work at Porsche for little or no pay.

“We need to process the subject; we are just at the start of the procedure,” a Porsche spokesman said.

The issue came to light after Ulrich Viehoefer, an economics journalist based in the city of Stuttgart, conducted research on Ferdinand Porsche’s role in Germany during the Nazi era.

“In contrast to other German industrial families, the Porsche-Piechs have not completely come clean on their dealings in the Nazi period,” Viehoefer told Deutsche Welle.

 Viehoefer claims that over 300 people were forced to work for Porsche, over half of the luxury car maker’s workforce at the time. He published his findings in the book, “Nazi Culprits in Stuttgart.”

 Porsche has already admitted to implementing forced labor at its factories under Hitler’s rule. So far, Porsche has admitted to using only minimal slave labor. It has acknowledged that 50 people had been subjected to forced labor. They were said to be Poles, Russians, Dutch, Flemish, Belgian, Czech, and Italians.

Porsche added, meanwhile, that it has paid reparations for those offenses. It said the company had given 2.5 million euros to a German fund aimed at compensating victims of slave labor.

“Money isn’t all that counts,” Viehoefer said, adding “I asked a former forced laborer at Porsche from Poland whether the company had ever apologized to him for his suffering, but he said that nothing of the kind had ever happened.”

http://www.dw-world.de/dw/article/0,,4783359,00.html

2. With car running, open hood and locate the two vacuum lines leading to the intake manifold.

3. Take container of Sea Foam and pour 1/2 the bottle into a empty bowl or bottle. I used a dry and empty water bottle. Now you will not be needing the sea foam container any more.

4. Cut a strip of vacume line or whatever you may wish to use.

5. Attatch to the front intake bung.

6. Lean vacuum line into bottle, but do NOT submerge it in the sea foam.

7. With hand on the throttle body, or someone in the driver seat, raise RPM’s to 2500rpm and hold.

8. With engine at 2500 rpm tilt the bottle of liquid and VERY slowly let the end of the vacuum line touch the sea foam. If the engine begins to choke you are doing it too fast and need to stop so the engine can stabilize.

9. Continue this until 1/2 the liquid in the bottle is used then let the engine go back to idle.

10. Remove the vacuum line from the bottle but DO NOT shut of the engine.

11. Reattach the vacuum line to the front intake bung.

12. Locate the rear intake bung that leads to the FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator).

13. I made a t-fitting to use in this section.

14. replace the vacuum line section with the t-fitting.

15. Run the vacuum line into the bottle with the remaining Sea foam.

Repeat steps 7 through 10
7. With hand on the throttle body, or someone in the driver seat, raise RPM’s to 2500rpm and hold.

8. With engine at 2500 rpm tilt the bottle of liquid and VERY slowly let the end of the vacuum line touch the sea foam. If the engine begins to choke you are doing it too fast and need to stop so the engine can stabilize.

9. Continue this until 1/2 the liquid in the bottle is used then let the engine go back to idle.

10. Remove the vacuum line from the bottle but DO NOT shut of the engine.

16. Reattach original vacuum line to the top intake bung and FPR

.
.
.
Turn off the vehicle and let it sit for 10 minutes.
.
.
.
17. Start vehicle and watch the smoke ploom out the exhaust… there will be a lot.

After 5 minutes:

18. Let sit for 15 minutes or until very little if any smoke is still exiting out the exhaust.

19. Go for a little drive allowing the RPM’s to reach 6000 rpm. Smoke will continue to exit the exhaust for ~2-5 minutes but will eventually stop.

20. You are now done and enjoy your car.

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php?t=190390

Verizon’s Droid Targets iPhone

Details are slipping out about Verizon’s Android smartphone.

Harry McCracken, Technologizer

Verizon Wireless, which recently announced it was hopping on the Android smartphone OS bandwagon big time, has started whetting our appetite for It’s launched a TV ad for the phone, the Droid, and a teaser site. And so far, it’s mostly promoting the phone by bashing the iPhone, with pseudo-Apple text pointing out that “iDont” have a physical keyboard, (third-party) multitasking, a five-megapixel camera, much in the way of customization options, widgets, “open development,” the ability to take photos in the dark, or a removable battery. The Droid (whose name is licensed from Mr. Lucas) presumably has all of the above.

It’s an entertainingly combative ad, and a pretty effective one given that it doesn’t even show the phone (which apparently looks like this). Of course, the fact that the Droid beats the iPhone on a number of spec- and feature-related fronts doesn’t make it a breakthrough. It’s quite common for smartphones to theoretically trump the iPhone in multiple ways, but the iPhone’s level of hardware/software/service integration and the vast quantity of available apps remain unique. No other phone is going to catch up with the iPhone’s software catalog anytime soon, so if I were an Apple competitor, I’d concentrate on trying to vaunt into the same league in ter ms of integration. Not that that’ll be easy. The Droid arrives next month, so we won’t have to wait long to judge it.

The other interesting question about the Droid commercial is this: Does all its cheeky iPhone-bashing signal that Verizon has no plans to sell the iPhone anytime soon? It not only mocks the phone but mocks Apple in a way that suggests that it doesn’t plan to go into business with it, despite rumors. I took the implied message of the ad as being something like this: “Yes, we know that a lot of people want a Verizon iPhone, but hold on-we’re going to have a smartphone that’s better than an iPhone.”

(Then again, I’m fascinated by this Verizon ad that says a non-Verizon BlackBerry is a paperweight-it might be an effective ad, but it seems like an odd thing to do to BlackBerry maker and Verizon partner RIM.)

Anyhow, here’s the “iDon’t” ad:

http://www.pcworld.com/article/173865/verizons_droid_targets_iphone.html

So you want to build your engine eh? That world of bigger turbos then the GTRS will be opened and the real fun times will begin. But where do you start? This will be a guide to what you will need from start to finish to have everything done right.

We will start out with the simple qestion, “I want to do rods, where do I start?”

Well, before ordering anything you need to know what type of rods you want. If you want to do just drop in rods with your stock pistons, with the 19mm wristpin (which is less safe than a 20mm wristpin, but can still take a beating), you have…

- Integrated Engineering Rods ($350)
- Pauter Rods ($800)

Now, if your ready to change your pistons out for bigger 20mm wristpin, you have a few more options.

- Carillo ($850-$1500)
- Scat ($350)
- Pauter ($750)
- IE ($330)
- Eurospec ($700)

Now, for those of you that decided to get pistons for this job way to go, you have a few options here as well.

- JE Pistons ($600)
- Mahle ($600)
- Wiseco ($600)
- OEM AEB Pistons (these come out of the 97-2000 A4s and have 20mm wristpins) ($100-$200)

Now, your rods (and pistons possibly) came in the mail and your all happy, however, youll need some more things to complete the transaction.

- rod bearings
- rear seal
- head bolts (or studs depending if you want to step up)
- head gasket
- timing belt kit
- pan sealant
- assembly lube
- pistons with rings or OEM rings if using stock pistons

Cool, your all set. Now, you want to make sure you have the tools for the whole job. Tools you will need are

- Torx Set
- Hex Set
- Metric Socket set
- Torque Wrench
- Ring Compressor
- Ring filers

——————————————————————————————————————————–

So F that 1.8T stuff man, your moving on to bigger and better things. You’re tired of this 1.8 stuff and your doing something about it. This is when the B5/B6 split becomes more apparent.

We will start off with the difference between the B5 and B6 1.8T engines.

In 1997, Audi introduced the AEB 1.8T, arguably the best 1.8T ever made. It had a free flowing head and strong bottom end (20mm wristpin) with forged internals. In the year 2000 this free flowing head was replaced with a small port head but kept the strong bottom end until it was replaced in 2001 by the weaker bottom end. In 2002, Audi came out with the AMB, basically a different block design altogether but with the same weaker bottom end and small port head.

Earlier Block Model – 058
Later Block Number – 06A

I will be using 058 and 06A a lot so stay focused here.

Now onto actual displacements. Engine builders round up quite often, which you will see here. Things to note here is that the stock bore is 81mm and the stock stroke is 86.4mm

86.4mm stroke = Stock 1.8T Cranks
92.8mm stroke = AEG/ABA Cranks
95.5mm stroke = TDI Crank

81mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1781cc
83mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1870cc
83.5mm bore x 86.4mm stroke = 1892.7cc
81mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 1913cc
83mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 2008cc
83.5mm bore x 92.8mm stroke = 2033cc
83mm bore x 95.5mm stroke = 2066cc

It is possible to do more but if your going that big you need more info then this thread…

Now, for your custom pistons for this job, you have a few options here as well, just make sure you order them in time they usually take a month to make! Also, you can get many different Compression Ratios, I went with a 9:1 but talk to them about what you want, everyone’s needs are different.

- JE Pistons
- Supertech
- Wiseco

——————————————————————————————————————————–

If you have an 058 block, I’m going to assume your doing the bold route (2008cc) because it is easiest. Now, your basically pulling your whole engine apart to do this so it is much more detailed. Basically you just need one more part, the crank, so now you have

- Pistons
- Rods
- Crank (058 guys use the ABA crank for 2.0 builds)

“You will need to shave the walls on the inside of the block to make the 92.8mm crank with Scat rods work. Cyl #1 has to be shaved the most, then shave the inner reinforcement of #3 and the lower reinforcement of #3. No need to shave the wall on 4th cyl wall but the piston will hit the oil squirter. Answer: Run a copper shim to move the squirter up so it’ll clear the piston squirt.” – Paul@BF

A machined intermediate shaft is needed for everything to fit also. Check Paul’s thread for more info (listed at the bottom)

If you have an 06A block, I’m going to assume your doing the bold route (2008cc) because it is easiest (and even easier then 058 guys). Now, your basically pulling your whole engine apart to do this so it is much more detailed. Basically you just need one more part, the crank, so now you have

- Pistons
- Rods
- Crank (06A guys use the AEG crank a crank out of the new 2.0T FSI motors)

Now, because your motor is comming completely apart, you will most likely have more things to replace, keep in mind some of these may not be needed for you and some may be. Its all up to you. I would get some more opinions with your milage and such.

- crank bolt
- main bolts
- main bearings
- rod bearings
- rear seal
- head bolts (or studs depending on what you want to do)
- head gasket
- timing belt kit
- pan sealant
- assembly lube
- oil pump

Now, for the main bearings, there is a big controversy of which color is best. There are colors on the top bearings (the ones that sit on the top of the crank) that determine their crush factor apparently. Anyway, on the bottom of your block it should have letters, 5 of them, in a row. They should tell you what color your bearings are. Keep in mind that the letters are in German. Mine were Red (Rosen in German) so my block looked like this – RRRRR.

——————————————————————————————————————————–

Ok so you’ve gotten all your parts (although you know youll be at the dealer for those last minute things you break!), good. Now your off to find a machine shop.

WARNING

by this point I would assume that your ready to tear apart your motor. I would get a spare 06A block for myself (they float around Vortex a lot) and build that. My car was down for way too long and it sucked I could have saved myself a lot of trouble by having a spare block!

Ok so for the machine shop, you need to make sure they have done 1.8Ts that work before. Seriously make sure you have talked to someone with a running engine from their shop. Bring at the least your pistons to them, your going to want a

- 83mm Bore/Hone
- Hottank

and you can get whatever other options you want but its all up to you. I got the block decked also and the assembly balanced, but it doesnt matter because I think I mixed up 2 bearings, o well shit happens.

I paid $400 in all (crazy good deal) but the pricing gets way up there depending on the shop/amount of work

——————————————————————————————————————————–

Well, I cant really help you out on this part, it would be the assembly. Make sure if you dont know what your doing that you have someone help you who does or you leave it to professionals. Basically the hardest parts are torquing everything down, ring gapping (I snapped one of my rings in the process ), and getting timing right once the head is on.

Hope you all enjoyed this thread, let me know if you want to add anything else.

Refrences

http://audizine.com/forum/showthread…=105602&page=3

http://www.ducatitech.com/info/bore.html

Random Vortex 1.8T forum threads